Tag Archives: Russia

Simushir Island – Cold War Art in the Kuril Islands

Since I enjoy visiting far flung destinations, my Russian travel experience was short on cities like Moscow and big on remote island chains like the Commander and Kuril Islands in Far East Russia.

One of those islands just happened to have some interesting Cold War artwork and murals lying about – 20+ years after the settlement had been abandoned.

Tank and Solider Artwork - Simushir Island
Tank and Solider Artwork – At the Abandoned Submarine Base on Simushir Island

 

Simushir Island is a remote island in the Kuril Islands, which was once home to a thriving community at Broutona Bay. Now, less than 20 years after it was abandoned it is back on the map and can be visited by intrepid travellers who venture to Far East Russia.

Art Murals on Simushir Island, Russia
Some of the more peaceful murals seen at an abandoned village on Simushir Island, Russia

 

One thing that stood out while walking through the eerily quiet buildings was the art work found on walls, including murals, mostly all paying homage to the Soviet Era rule and importance of strength and might during the Cold War era. Here, propaganda seemed to run rampant.

Kuril Islands - Broutona Bay War Mural
A War Mural at Broutona Bay in the Kuril Islands, Russia

 

In the Kuril Islands, the battle was, and still is, with Japan. These disputed islands remain a source of contention, claimed by both Russia and Japan. The international community largely keeps out of this controversy, but the US has acknowledged that they believe Japan is the rightful owner of the islands. That surely doesn’t make Russia happy.

Back to the artwork! From images of tanks to murals of Lenin and cosmonauts, this was one of those places that seems a bit frozen in time.

Simushir Island - Russian Mural
Russian Mural on Simushir Island in The Kuril Islands

 

A Mural of Lenin on Simushir Island
A Mural of Lenin on Simushir Island in Far East Russia

 

Lenin is prominent in this abandoned settlement. Not surprising really, as from what I gathered from the people at a couple of settlements on other islands in this far end of Russia, they feel somewhat forgotten by the current leadership back in Moscow. At least when Lenin was around, they had supplies and infrastructure and purpose.

After visiting Simushir Island, I couldn’t help but think that the few inhabited islands I visited would one day have a similar fate. I suppose only time will tell.

 

Abandoned Art Room at Broutona Bay
Abandoned Art Room at Broutona Bay on Simushir Island, Russia

 

 

Zodiac Cruising the Zhupanova River in Kamchatka

After spending a couple of weeks in Far East Russia (Think Siberia, but further east), one of the places that stood out above the rest was the Zhupanova River in Kamchatka.

Zhupanova River - Zodiac
Zodiac Cruising in wild Russia, Volcanoes looming in the Background

 

Kamchatka is one of those rugged places with no road access to the rest of the country and cities and towns largely looking like they did back in the Soviet era.

Salmon fishing and hunting are common along this part of Kamchatka, yet the Zhupanova River boasted a huge array of wildlife and bird life, which attracted most of the people on my ship trip run by Heritage Expeditions.

Russian Fishermen, Zhupanova River
Russian Fishermen, Zhupanova River in Kamchatka, Russia

 

In one short visit, I saw more than 20 Steller Sea Eagles, somewhere around 100 Largha Seals, a handful of Sea Otters and plenty of other bird species. With snow-capped active volcanoes in the background (some of them smoking) it was one of those surreal landscapes, the type of nature paradise that I prefer to seek out on my travels.

Steller Sea Eagle - Kamchatka
Steller Sea Eagle flying above the Zhupanova River in Kamchatka

 

Steller Sea Eagle in a Tree
Steller Sea Eagle in a Tree near the Zhupanova River in Far East Russia

 

Nature rules here and I was lucky to visit an area that only sees handfuls of tourists every year. Even the local fishing town was happy to see some visitors for a change and welcomed us in for some fish and tea.

Spotted, or Largha Seals in Kamchatka
Largha Seals lounging around in the water of the Zhupanova River, Russia

 

I even learned a little about birding in this part of Russia, after spotting the elusive Aleutian Tern. For someone who once disliked all birds except those that couldn’t fly, travelling to remote Russia with a boat of birders was an eye-opening experience. I dreamed about birds for a week after the trip and can now tell the difference between Tufted and Horned Puffins and also know that there is no such thing as a ‘Seagull’!

Fishing Village, Zhupanova River
Fishing Village, Zhupanova River in Russia

 

Zodiac Cruising the Zhupanova River
Looking for Wildlife – Zodiac Cruising the Zhupanova River in Far East Russia