All posts by Red Hunt

A former journalist and business analyst that now works in the world of travel marketing. Based in Toronto, Red Hunt has travelled to more than 50 countries over the past 15 years. You can follow Red on Instagram or Twitter.

Waking up Bundala

Imagine having an entire National Park all to yourself.

My friend and I arrived early, before sunrise, at Bundala National Park in Sri Lanka and were greeted at the entrance. After paying our park fee, locating a driver, park guide and hopping into their safari truck, we were on our way – well almost.

Elephant in Bundala National Park
Admiring an Elephant during sunrise in Bundala National Park

 

We had gotten up early for a morning of wildlife and bird watching in Bundala. We had been told that elephants, deer, crocodiles and a huge variety of bird life call this park home, in total almost 200 species of birds use this park as a migratory stopover. It was a quiet morning, still very early. Misty and cool. The perfect time of day for exploring and photography. But when our Jeep arrived at the park checkpoint, to start our official safari, there was no guard to be seen. We had no way to get through the checkpoint!

Waking up Bundala
Waking up Bundala – the sun rising above the park in Sri Lanka

 

Finally, after searching all the nearby buildings and gatehouses, we stumbled across a sleeping park worker – the gatekeeper. It seems that they hadn’t been getting many visitors recently, or perhaps he had just been out a little too late the night before?

Stumbling to his feet, he checked our permit and let us by…I’m pretty sure he fell asleep again as soon as we passed by.

Land Monitor in Bundala
A Land Monitor getting some sun on a tree branch in Bundala National Park

 

It was kind of exciting, knowing we were the first people to be entering the park that day. An entire National Park all for us! Waking up the workers is one thing, but watching the park wildlife come to life was even better.

For the next 2.5 hours we rode along the bumpy dirt roads in the park, stopping to watch land monitors and crocodiles sunning themselves in the early morning light and watching peacocks flutter about and colourful birds wading in the marshy waters of the park. Monkeys slowly became active and around every new corner, animals started appearing out of nowhere – as if they didn’t expect any visitors to see them this early in the morning.

Buffalo and Birds in Bundala
An early morning scene – Buffalo and birds in Bundala National Park

 

We would turn one corner and be greeted by quiet, majestic elephants grazing on the tasty grasses of the park. A few minutes later there would be a troupe of monkeys lazily waking up and grooming each other in some trees.

It kind of felt like a scene out of the Jungle Book, where animals reigned supreme. Without any other safari vehicles in sight, it was easy to forget that towns and villages were nearby, just beyond the visible horizon.

Hanuman Langurs in Bundala National Park
Hanuman Langurs enjoying the morning sun in Bundala National Park

 

We passed by one other person in the entire park. A local farmer on the edge of the park who lived off the land and let his cattle graze here.

As the journey came to an end, we drove back past the gatekeeper and to the park entrance. Only then, did we seem one other safari vehicle loaded up with travellers. It seemed that it was their turn to have the park all to themselves.

Bundala National Park - Coastline
Coastline scenery of Bundala National Park in Sri Lanka

 

 

Twenty Dollars a Day for Da

What do you do when you’re working in Cambodia and your company gives you a daily cash allowance of $20 for transportation?

This was the case years ago when I was doing some journalism work in Phnom Penh. The project lasted more than two months in total and we had a great time exploring the city during the week and rest of the country on weekends.

Hanging out with Da in Sihanoukville
Weekend Roadtrip – Hanging out with Da in Sihanoukville, Cambodia

 

As for that $20/day we could have pocketed it as extra cash ourselves, since nobody from the office cared. After all, for just $1 we could hop on the back of a kids moped and they’d take us anywhere in the city. But we weren’t ready to pocket the extra cash. Instead we ran into a college graduate working at the Ministry of Tourism.

His salary as a university graduate? $35/month. Someone else we knew who was a teacher made $40/month.

Our tourism contact wanted to go back to university to become a lawyer, so he could then make $50/month. Those numbers may seem small, but he was living a decent life with his parents in Phnom Penh. Saving up money, he hoped that within a few years he would have enough money to get a place to live for him and his girlfriend. He had goals, he knew what he wanted out of life and worked hard to achieve those goals.

Our new friend, Da, happened to have an older brother who had a car and he didn’t have to be in the office for his job at the Ministry every day, so it was settled – he became our personal driver.

Da at Independance Monument
Da at Independence Monument in Phnom Penh

 

The convenience of having an air-conditioned car waiting for us at the hotel and businesses we visited was a life-saver considering we were wearing suits every day in 40C heat. It didn’t take long to develop a great rapport with Da, who was always eager to practice and improve his already impressive English speaking skills. He took us to hidden Khmer restaurants that remained undiscovered by foreign travellers and he knew all the best places for our business needs – from where to get business cards printed, to which business were brand new and might be worth visiting.

Da quickly became part of our team even after hours, playing billiards along Sisowath Quay, joining us on weekend trips to Sihanoukville and Siem Reap as well as trips to the Royal Palace, National Museum and every other popular attractions we wanted to see. Most of these places he’d never visited before as his family couldn’t afford the meagre entrance fees or transportation costs.

We worked hard during the days, but had plenty of free time to enjoy the nights and weekends.

Eventually our time in Cambodia came to an end. But in the short months we had been there, Da had saved up enough money to sell his moped and put a down payment on his own new car. He could now be a taxi driver for tourists or other visitors and continue to make extra income on the side after we were gone. He still planned to go back to school, marry his girlfriend and get his own home.

Da's New Car
Da’s New Car outside the National Museum

 

It was only $20/day for us, but to him it was equivalent to 5 years worth of salary. A life-changing chance encounter!

The Unphotographable Jeita Grotto

Between midnight mezze meals and afternoon beers I found that from Beirut, you can take a day trip to virtually any part of Lebanon. From Beirut you head north for an hour or two and hit the ruins of Byblos or the typically Middle Eastern destination of Tripoli, with it’s souks and old charm. Head south to the seaside fort at Saida or down to Tyre, again just a short hour or so from Beirut. It’s a small country, one you can explore quite extensively in a week, although Beirut itself can easily take up that much time on its own.

A Sculpture in Lebanon
A Sculpture in Lebanon, outside of the Jeita Grotto

 

I found myself wondering what to do for a 1/2 day after recovering from a late night in the city that was once called the Paris of the Middle East. The choice was the Jeita Grotto. Something I’d suggest anyone to visit if you happen to be in Lebanon.

Grotto. It’s kind of a boring word, I’ve never really been attracted to other grottos, they’re all pretty much the same aren’t they? Maybe some have more interesting caves or wall paintings or whatever, but the Jeitta Grotto is heralded throughout Lebanon as their greatest natural wonder…well, maybe second to their biblically famous cedar trees. The Jeita Grotto though, is worth seeing.

Train Ride in Jeita
A fun little Train Ride that you take between caves at the Jeita Grotto

 

So heading off to the grotto, again just a short drive form Beirut, I couldn’t help but get excited. Billboards and flyers and websites hailed it as one of Lebanon’s best attractions! With such hype, it had to be good, right?

I arrived at the grotto stoked to check out this natural attraction. If you’re wondering exactly what a grotto is, well in this case the Jeita Grotto is an immense cave complex of stalactites and stalagmites. Massive open air caves where the temperature stays steady throughout the year and water drips down through a mountain into these caves. The upper level has crazy stalactites that look like lions and giants, quite the place for an active imagination. The lower level is flooded with water so you need to take a boat ride around to stare at the hundred or thousand year old stalactites.

It’s all lit up beautifully too, giving the cave complex an eerie and magical feel. You really should see it. I’d show you my pictures to convince you, but I can’t. You see, for all of its hype, you’re not allowed to take any photos of the Jeita Grotto in Lebanon. I really wish I knew that before I got sucked in by all the pretty billboards and posters.

Guardian of Time at Jeita Grotto
The Guardian of Time sculpture outside of the Jeita Grotto

 

Upon arriving at the site, you’re promptly directed to lockers to store your cameras. If you think sneaking in a camera phone or small digital camera is going to work, think again. The employees, who look more like security guards, are stationed about every 50 feet throughout the caves…scoping out everyone, on the lookout for image taking devices.

It is a photo-worthy place. Better than any grotto I’ve seen in Central America, North America or Asia (although I could take photos in all of those).

Talking to the people there, it makes sense you wouldn’t want bright flashes going off in the cavernous grotto tunnels all the time, but the fact that no photography is allowed…ever…even without a flash seems a bit extreme.

If you don’t make it there, not to worry, there are plenty of other photo-friendly grottos around the world.

Nikolskoye Village and the Easternmost Church in Russia

The Commander Islands…quite possibly a destination you’ve never heard of. On a map, follow the Aleutian Islands from Alaska all the way across to Russia and the closest islands to Russia are actually the Commander Islands.

Rusty Ship at Nikolskoye Village
A Rusty Ship at Nikolskoye Village, the only permanent settlement in the Russian Commander Islands

 

These Russian Islands, almost 200km off the coast of Far East Russia, are a protected marine area. The village of Nikolskoye, on Bering Island, is home to 800 people. This is the only permanent settlement on the islands, which are prone to severe weather, including earthquakes. There are no trees on the islands – it’s quite a desolate looking part of the world.

Nikolskoye Village, Russia
A home in Nikolskoye Village on Bering Island – Far East Russia

 

This is a place that survives on fishing and was only just escaping the icy grip of winter at the end of May. Not many people visit here, but the wildlife draws some adventurous people who are on the lookout for northern fur seals, sea otters and Steller sea lions.

Nikolskoye Village on Bering Island
Nikolskoye Village on Bering Island in Russia. The blue building is the museum.

 

Russia recently went on an improvement spree here, painting and fixing up some old buildings, building a new church for the village and creating a lookout honouring Vitus Bering, whose ship, St. Peter, wrecked here in 1741.

The church officially opened in October and took about two years to build. It is actually the easternmost Orthodox church in Russia!

Easternmost Church in Russia
Building the Easternmost Orthodox Church in Russia, on Bering Island

 

As a visitor, the island museum was entertaining too. They had a skeleton of an extinct species of sea cow that was once very common in the area, as well as a good amount of displays showcasing the natural history of the islands.

Nikolskoye Village Museum
Nikolskoye Village Museum on Bering Island, Far East Russia

 

The lady who takes care of the museum was quite friendly and gave us some insights into local life on the islands as well – such as her favourite meal being puffin soup with lots of blood in it!

Wildlife Photo: Galapagos Penguin

 

Penguin in the Galapagos Islands
A Galapagos Penguin swimming near Puerto Villamil, Isabela Island

 

Returning to the Galapagos Islands four years after my first visit, there was one specific animal on my ‘must photograph’ list – the endangered Galapagos Penguin!

The last time I was in the Galapagos Islands I saw only two penguins while I was snorkeling at Bartolome Island. They sat on a rocky ledge for a brief 10 seconds before vanishing in the water and escaping from me and my camera.

The second smallest penguins in the world, and the only penguins that are not restricted to the southern hemisphere, these equator-hopping penguins are cute little guys.

They’re not flashy, but they’re definitely ‘penguin’. Blending in perfectly with the black, grey and white lava rocks around the islands, they are surprisingly well camouflaged.

But in the crystal clear water, they are perfect little photo subjects.

This guy was one of three that were swimming along not far from Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island.