All posts by Red Hunt

A former journalist and business analyst that now works in the world of travel marketing. Based in Toronto, Red Hunt has travelled to more than 50 countries over the past 15 years. You can follow Red on Instagram or Twitter.

Sunrise Shadow – Adams Peak

 

Flags and Mountain Shadow at Adams Peak
Adams Peak Shadow and Prayer Flags at Sunrise

 

A holy pilgrimage site, Adams Peak (or Sri Pada) in Sri Lanka is a sacred mountain. Atop this mountain is a small temple housing what many people believe to be the footprint of Buddha.

I saved the 5200 stair trek up the mountain for my last day in the country. Getting up in the darkness of the middle of the night, the slow, heart-pumping effort was worth it to see the sun rise over Sri Lanka.

For a short time, the sun pierces the top of the temple, creating this pyramid-like shadow across the cloud-covered forest and land below. I thought the prayer flags added a special element to the meaning of the photo.

 

Wildlife Photo: Hood Mockingbird of the Galapagos

 

Hood Mockingbird on Espanola Island
A Hood Mockingbird, or Espanola Mockingbird, in the Galapagos Islands

 

This mean looking guy got his picture taken not because I thought he looked cool, but because he was being aggressive.

Called a Hood Mockingbird, or Española Mockingbird (as they’re on found on Espanola Island), they have no fear of people and are happy to fly by and harass you! They’re one of the Galapagos bird species that will attack if you have an open container of water, even if you’re taking a sip from your water bottle!

One of four mockingbird species in the Galapagos, the Espanola Mockingbird is listed as a vulnerable species. Interestingly, this is the only mockingbird species that Charles Darwin failed to see or capture during his time on the islands.

Romance in Nuwara Eliya

Sri Lanka is a wonderful country and the day I spent driving through the Nuwara Eliya highlands was one of my favourites. The cool breeze and lush landscapes hiding secret waterfalls were a nice nature break from the city life I had been living for a few days back in Kandy.

Sri Lanka - Nuwara Eliya
Near Nuwara Eliya, in the Highlands of Sri Lanka

 

A lunch time stop at a tea plantation was the perfect way to break up the day. I had a personal tour all to myself and was surprised just how much effort, and pride, goes into making tea in Sri Lanka! After buying some packages to bring home for friends, and sampling some myself, I was off to go higher into the mountains for a good nights rest.

Tea Pickers in Sri Lanka
Tea Pickers near Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

 

Now, I should point out that when I visited Sri Lanka it was near the end of their civil war battles in 2009. Tourists were few and far between, while tanks, fighter jets and road blocks were common sights.

But up here in the mountains it was quite peaceful and I was happy to enjoy some quiet time.

Once again, I learned that I was the only guest – yes only guest – at the hotel that evening. When you’re the only guest in a large hotel it means that the bartender, cook, bellman, manager, front desk clerk and cleaning staff all usually know your name and where you’re from. It is a bit intimidating and uncomfortable really. Such a level of customer service I’ve never experienced anywhere else before, or since.

Hanging out at the Hotel
Another Quiet Hotel in Sri Lanka

 

This great customer service was no exception at Nuwara Eliya. After checking in I was informed of when dinner was being served and had a couple of hours to myself. The staff made sure I was happy with my room and that I had everything I needed.

Relaxing out on my front patio, drinking a beer and snacking on fresh cashews, I watched a nearby cascading waterfall while the sun set over the mountains. One of those romantic settings from a travel brochure, all for me to enjoy!

With the sun gone it was off to eat, by myself, again.

As I entered the dining room, I was intimidated. This hotel had obviously seen better days, as the grand dining room was lined with framed pictures on the walls giving it an air of importance from another era.

Bar Area of the Hotel Dining Room
Bar Seating Area of the Hotel Dining Room in Nuwara Eliya

 

The dining room was large, seating for more than 100 guests I imagined, complete with a lounge and seperate bar area. It was all dimly lit, partly for romance and partly to hide the dirt and aging infrastructure.

I ventured in and was greeted by a smiling waiter. Looking around, I confirmed that it was only me who would be dining on this night.

Impeccably set tables all around me, I was seated by the friendly waiter and informed of my meal options. He knew I was Canadian, so we had a brief chat about snow before he vanished away to the kitchen. I ordered a beer and snacked on some bread while I waited for the first course to arrive – French onion soup.

My Dinner Table in Nuwara Eliya
Dinner for two? No, just one.

 

It is a weird, awkward feeling being in such a cavernous room all by yourself with nobody else around. You feel like you’re being watched and there isn’t really anything to stare at after a while, so you just sit there in silence. I pretended to read the book I had with me, but the silence was too distracting.

Finally, the French onion soup arrived. It looked delicious!

Before I sampled it, The waiter asked if I would like some music while I enjoyed my meal. Hmm, sure, why not…it will do well to break that awkward silence.

French Onion Soup in Sri Lanka
Hot French Onion Soup in Nuwara Eliya...but First some Music

 

So he wanders over towards the old wooden bar and after a minute or two, finds something worthy of accompanying my meal.

I hear the crackling of the speakers come to life, realizing that a vinyl record has been put in motion.

As the waiter fades away through the kitchen doors, I dip my spoon into my soup, and a recognizable Canadian voice begins to sing and fill the otherwise empty room.

My thoughtful waiter had carefully selected a special song just for me: My Heart Will Go On by Celine Dion.

For the rest of the meal, I sat by myself in this somewhat dated yet still romantic dining room, being serenaded by the songs of Celine Dion.

Just another fun day in Sri Lanka…happy Valentine’s Day everyone!

Wildlife Photo: Topi

 

Topi Antelope in the Serengeti
A Topi in Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

 

One of the most striking antelopes I saw in Africa was the Topi. A deep suede looking coat with near black highlights, it was uniquely different to the common impala, puku and other light-coated antelopes running around.

They’re a bit similar to the hartebeest, but with bolder colouring, dark faces and ringed horns that only have a gradual turn to them.

They’re not endangered, but different subspecies are facing troubles across parts of central Africa. They’re plentiful in the well-protected parks of east Africa, this one what photographed in the Serengeti National Park of Tanzania.

Easter Island – Te Ara O Te Ao Trail

An impressive hike on Easter Island, the Te Ara O Te Ao Trail from Hanga Road town up to Rano Kau crater, via the Manavai Garden is a moderate to challenging day trek depending on weather.

Most people hire a car or simply hop in a taxi for the ride up the hill to the edge of the crater and nearby Orongo ruins. But doing that  you miss out on some great seaside scenery, a botanical garden, ocean-side caves and an enjoyable uphill hike through grassy fields and tree patches that offer a beautiful panoramic view of the island.

Easter Island Trail Marker - Pie del Rano Kau
Pie del Rano Kau Tuki Marker on Easter Island

 

I started my hike at Camping Mihinoa, where I was staying. It is a bit on the edge of town, so I was already between hike marker (or ‘TUKI’) 10 and 11 when I got on the road. From there, you follow the road towards the mountain that looms in the distance. The full trail, one-way is slightly more than 3.5km long and takes roughly 2 hours at a decent pace, but stopping to enjoy the highlights.

Highlight 1: Fishing Harbour

On the outskirts of town is the lively fishing harbour. This is where so many Easter Islanders make their living, heading out to sea each day to catch some fish. No tourist facilities here, this is all business.

Fishing Boats on Easter Island
Easter Island - Fishing Boats on the Outskirts of Hanga Roa

 

Highlight 2: Flowers and Trees

Flowering hibiscus are among the more colourful sights you’ll see on a hike up to Rano Kau.

 

Hibiscus Flower
There are plenty of trees and flowers along the Te Ara O Te Ao trail

 

Highlight 3: Ahu Riata

A fairly simple Ahu. You can find Ahu Riata across the road from the harbour and just before the airport. As you can see in the photo here, airplanes fly in pretty close!

Ahu Riata, Easter Island
Ahu Riata on Easter Island, with Moa Statues and Airplane in the Background

 

Highlight 4: Manavai Exhibition Garden

Dozens of different plants are on exhibit in this botanical garden. They’re mostly protected with circular rock structures surrounding them, to keep them safe from rodents. Easter Island was once nearly all forest, before the early inhabitants wiped it clear. Today, efforts are under way to re-forest the island with endemic plant species.

Manavai Exhibition Garden - Mandioca
Mandioca, a native plant, at the Manavai Exhibition Garden

 

Highlight 5: Observacion Geologica

A great view of the island and Hanga Roa town. You can stop for a break, have a picnic on a bench or just enjoy the view here.

Te Ara O Te Ao Trail - View of Hanga Roa
View of Hanga Roa from the Observacion Geologica

 

Highlight 6: Cooling off in a Rainstorm

I had a big rainstorm blow in halfway between the  Observacion Geologica and Rano Kau. Considering I was dumb and had run out of water in the 35C heat it was a welcome relief. Did I mention I only ran across two other people on the entire hike? A local father and his daughter who were hiking down the mountain. They seemed surprise to see me, a visitor, bothering to enjoy some nature on Easter Island.

Storm Clouds Clearing on Easter Island
Storms Roll in Quick on Easter Island, but Give Welcome Relief to the Heat

 

Highlight 7: Mirador Rano Kau

This is the reward at the top of the hill and edge of the ocean. One of the most amazing views I’ve ever enjoyed! Hiking inside the crater is technically not allowed and can be quite dangerous, but some people venture further.

Rano Kau Crater on Easter Island
Crater of Rano Kau Lookout on Easter Island

 

Highlight 8: Taking the Easy Road back to Town

On the way down I took the easier route and hiked down the main road. It goes more inland and is actually a longer route that allows you to pass by a few farms and through some forest and rural parts of the island before swinging back to the coast, around the airport.

Road from Rano Kau and Orongo to Hanga Roa
Road to Hanga Roa from Rano Kau Crater

 

It was not nearly as scenic a hike as the way up was, but if you feel like taking it easy, it still gives you a better appreciation of the island than driving does. Just be wary of the local farm animals, I had a stare down with a rather intimidating cow on this remote road!