Tag Archives: Cambodia

Twenty Dollars a Day for Da

What do you do when you’re working in Cambodia and your company gives you a daily cash allowance of $20 for transportation?

This was the case years ago when I was doing some journalism work in Phnom Penh. The project lasted more than two months in total and we had a great time exploring the city during the week and rest of the country on weekends.

Hanging out with Da in Sihanoukville
Weekend Roadtrip – Hanging out with Da in Sihanoukville, Cambodia

 

As for that $20/day we could have pocketed it as extra cash ourselves, since nobody from the office cared. After all, for just $1 we could hop on the back of a kids moped and they’d take us anywhere in the city. But we weren’t ready to pocket the extra cash. Instead we ran into a college graduate working at the Ministry of Tourism.

His salary as a university graduate? $35/month. Someone else we knew who was a teacher made $40/month.

Our tourism contact wanted to go back to university to become a lawyer, so he could then make $50/month. Those numbers may seem small, but he was living a decent life with his parents in Phnom Penh. Saving up money, he hoped that within a few years he would have enough money to get a place to live for him and his girlfriend. He had goals, he knew what he wanted out of life and worked hard to achieve those goals.

Our new friend, Da, happened to have an older brother who had a car and he didn’t have to be in the office for his job at the Ministry every day, so it was settled – he became our personal driver.

Da at Independance Monument
Da at Independence Monument in Phnom Penh

 

The convenience of having an air-conditioned car waiting for us at the hotel and businesses we visited was a life-saver considering we were wearing suits every day in 40C heat. It didn’t take long to develop a great rapport with Da, who was always eager to practice and improve his already impressive English speaking skills. He took us to hidden Khmer restaurants that remained undiscovered by foreign travellers and he knew all the best places for our business needs – from where to get business cards printed, to which business were brand new and might be worth visiting.

Da quickly became part of our team even after hours, playing billiards along Sisowath Quay, joining us on weekend trips to Sihanoukville and Siem Reap as well as trips to the Royal Palace, National Museum and every other popular attractions we wanted to see. Most of these places he’d never visited before as his family couldn’t afford the meagre entrance fees or transportation costs.

We worked hard during the days, but had plenty of free time to enjoy the nights and weekends.

Eventually our time in Cambodia came to an end. But in the short months we had been there, Da had saved up enough money to sell his moped and put a down payment on his own new car. He could now be a taxi driver for tourists or other visitors and continue to make extra income on the side after we were gone. He still planned to go back to school, marry his girlfriend and get his own home.

Da's New Car
Da’s New Car outside the National Museum

 

It was only $20/day for us, but to him it was equivalent to 5 years worth of salary. A life-changing chance encounter!

Crunchy Cambodia

Eating Frogs in Phnom Penh
Eating Frogs in Phnom Penh

One of my most memorable dining experiences is from a roadside stand on the outskirts of Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

After exploring much of the city and rest of the country during a journalism stint, it was time for me to head on to South Korea. I wasn’t really ready to leave, as I had grown to appreciate the laid back, friendly nature of Cambodians.

But it wasn’t my decision to make. To celebrate the great times I had in Cambodia, my new friend Mao Lada took me for a surprise dinner feast before heading off to the airport.

Together, with my friend Sarah, the three of us set out towards the airport. We passed by all the usual streets where rickety restaurants served up local Khmer cuisine. Soon we were on the outskirts of the city, nearing the airport.

Finally, Mao Lada pulled over on the side of the road to a place where local food stands had sprouted up, selling their delicacies to the locals who were all headed home after a long days work.

With bigger smiles than usual, and many looks of surprise, myself and Sarah followed Mao Lada to an available wooden platform that would serve as our table. Mao Lada quickly left us and ordered food in Khmer, returning with a wry smile, ensuring that we’d enjoy what we were about to eat.

As the sun was getting lower to the horizon, we received our drinks and appetizers. The drink of the night? Fermented palm juice. Somewhat rancid in smell, and very potent. This moonshine packed a punch.

As strong as it was, I found myself drinking plenty as were were eating unripe banana slices – with peels left on. They tasted like sawdust, even after dousing them in soy sauce. We appreciated the effort and awaited the next course.

Soon after, massive chunks of meat arrived. They looked like big red chicken legs. Nice. What was it though? Mao Lada informed us they were toad legs. Nice! Never had toad before. Sarah gingerly picked at the bone to get the good meat off, while I followed Mao Lada’s approach of eating the whole thing – bones and all.

Crunch crunch. Not bad. Bones had a bit of flavour. I can do this. IT was going well, I was getting really into it. Then I got to the toad knee, big bones and extra crunch. My teeth couldn’t handle it. Lacking the jaw power, I succumbed to the toad knee and proceeded to eat the rest of the meat only.

Could it get any better? Sitting at the side of the road eating toad legs and getting drunk on palm juice. It sure could! Next up was the grand finale – frogs. Lots and lots of little frogs. All fried up into crispy creations.

Now these were much smaller than the toad legs, but the special surprise was that we were eating the entire frogs. Heads, legs, spines – everything. Bring on more soy sauce and more fermented palm juice please!

Being skinny, these fried frogs were somewhat greasy and tasted, well, fried. I felt sorry for them as they had all obviously just been dumped into a boiling vat of oil and fried alive. But that didn’t stop me from eating more than a dozen of them. It was a real experience with a couple of great friends.

One of those meals I’ll never forget and would be happy to repeat should I ever meet up with my old friend in Cambodia again.