An impressive hike on Easter Island, the Te Ara O Te Ao Trail from Hanga Road town up to Rano Kau crater, via the Manavai Garden is a moderate to challenging day trek depending on weather.
Most people hire a car or simply hop in a taxi for the ride up the hill to the edge of the crater and nearby Orongo ruins. But doing that you miss out on some great seaside scenery, a botanical garden, ocean-side caves and an enjoyable uphill hike through grassy fields and tree patches that offer a beautiful panoramic view of the island.
I started my hike at Camping Mihinoa, where I was staying. It is a bit on the edge of town, so I was already between hike marker (or ‘TUKI’) 10 and 11 when I got on the road. From there, you follow the road towards the mountain that looms in the distance. The full trail, one-way is slightly more than 3.5km long and takes roughly 2 hours at a decent pace, but stopping to enjoy the highlights.
Highlight 1: Fishing Harbour
On the outskirts of town is the lively fishing harbour. This is where so many Easter Islanders make their living, heading out to sea each day to catch some fish. No tourist facilities here, this is all business.
Highlight 2: Flowers and Trees
Flowering hibiscus are among the more colourful sights you’ll see on a hike up to Rano Kau.
Highlight 3: Ahu Riata
A fairly simple Ahu. You can find Ahu Riata across the road from the harbour and just before the airport. As you can see in the photo here, airplanes fly in pretty close!
Highlight 4: Manavai Exhibition Garden
Dozens of different plants are on exhibit in this botanical garden. They’re mostly protected with circular rock structures surrounding them, to keep them safe from rodents. Easter Island was once nearly all forest, before the early inhabitants wiped it clear. Today, efforts are under way to re-forest the island with endemic plant species.
Highlight 5: Observacion Geologica
A great view of the island and Hanga Roa town. You can stop for a break, have a picnic on a bench or just enjoy the view here.
Highlight 6: Cooling off in a Rainstorm
I had a big rainstorm blow in halfway between the Observacion Geologica and Rano Kau. Considering I was dumb and had run out of water in the 35C heat it was a welcome relief. Did I mention I only ran across two other people on the entire hike? A local father and his daughter who were hiking down the mountain. They seemed surprise to see me, a visitor, bothering to enjoy some nature on Easter Island.
Highlight 7: Mirador Rano Kau
This is the reward at the top of the hill and edge of the ocean. One of the most amazing views I’ve ever enjoyed! Hiking inside the crater is technically not allowed and can be quite dangerous, but some people venture further.
Highlight 8: Taking the Easy Road back to Town
On the way down I took the easier route and hiked down the main road. It goes more inland and is actually a longer route that allows you to pass by a few farms and through some forest and rural parts of the island before swinging back to the coast, around the airport.
It was not nearly as scenic a hike as the way up was, but if you feel like taking it easy, it still gives you a better appreciation of the island than driving does. Just be wary of the local farm animals, I had a stare down with a rather intimidating cow on this remote road!
