Frigatebirds are some of the most interesting birds I’ve come across in the Galapagos Islands. Even after multiple visits to the islands, I still have trouble telling apart the two species there (magnificent frigates and greater frigates). The colour variations are what give them away, but usually they just look all black to me, so it doesn’t help.
One thing that is easy to tell is whether it is a male or female frigatebird!
This is obviously a male frigatebird, thanks to his red pouch. Seeing these birds puff out their pouches while propped up in a nest, in hopes of attracting a mate, is quite the sight. When puffed up all the way, the shape of the red pouch is similar to a heart.
As females circle above cliffs in the Galapagos Islands, they choose their mate not only based on how impressive his red pouch is, but more on the quality and location of his nest. Of course he needs to get her attention first, so she’ll take a closer look, but it isn’t a case of the brightest or biggest is best.
Quality counts for the female frigates, and they can be quite picky! It means male frigatebirds can spend a lot of time, and energy, putting on a display in hopes of getting lucky.
Male Frigatebird at Floreana Island, in the Galapagos
I rarely drink coffee. It’s something I’ll have if it is included for free, like when I’m flying on a plane or a hotel includes a free breakfast, or a friend buys me one. But I’ve never bought myself a coffee. Not even once, and I don’t have any coffee in my house.
To most people that seems crazy. But to me, it’s a habit, or should I say it’s an expense, I don’t need.
Still, I like the smell of coffee and am fascinated by how addicted so many people are. On my last trip to the Galapagos Islands, I decided it was worth checking out the Hacienda El Cafetal coffee farm on San Cristobal Island.
El Cafetal coffee farm in the Galapagos
When I was in the Galapagos back in 2012, I was enjoying a fruit smoothie (they call them batidos) at The Mockingbird Cafe in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Nicholas, the stout and personable guy whose family runs the joint, is the coffee man. This is “the” place to get a great coffee.
Shortly after that batido, I walked down the road and in an open courtyard, drying on the hot pavement in the sun were coffee beans. These beans had been brought down from the farm in the highlands to dry out. There were tons of beans, covering the entire parking lot sized courtyard. It seemed that it was harvesting time, as I was there in November.
A coffee bean dryer at El Cafetal
On this last visit to the Galapagos, I was there after harvest time had occurred, so it was quiet on the coffee farm. The beans had been picked and only a few leftovers could be found on the coffee plants as we hiked around the dense, deep vegetation of the farm.
It was cool seeing all of the equipment that was used to bring those beans from their home in the Galapagos highlands. There were tumblers, sorters and all sorts of machines that obviously had an important role in ensuring your organic Starbucks Galapagos coffee was the best possible thing you could taste.
Some kind of coffee bean tumbler
Now I will admit I’ve bought some of this Galapagos coffee. Not at Starbucks, but locally on San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos. I bought it not for myself, but for family and friends. My friends who do live in the Galapagos swear by the coffee that Nicholas provides. They say it is the best in the islands, and I don’t doubt them. He sure takes pride in it and deserves the success. Maybe I should buy a bag of the Galapagos coffee from Starbucks and bring it back to him the next time I am in the Galapagos Islands? I wonder what he’d think of their finished packaging and pricing?
A few leftover coffee beans, after the Galapagos harvest
Anyhow, I think it is always smart to know where your food comes from, so now you know where your Starbucks Galapagos coffee comes from!
The coffee farm is located in the lush highlands of San Cristobal Island
More coffee bean sorting equipment in the Galapagos Islands
After spending many months in the Galapagos Islands during my various visits there, I’ve learned quite a few travellers have strange expectations when it comes to visiting the Galapagos. Even people who have visited the islands often get things wrong. So, here are 5 things most people don’t know about the remote Galapagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador.
1 – 40,000 People Live in the Galapagos
A local soccer match on San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos
It’s not all about the animals, as four islands support towns, with populations from 140 to more than 20,000. Spending time in the towns, especially on Isabela Island and San Cristobal Island, is a great way to get the full travel experience of the islands, instead of just ticking off animals from a guide book. Because of the higher standard of living in the Galapagos compared to mainland Ecuador, there are strict immigration controls in the islands for both visitors and workers.
2 – Galapagos Travel Guide Books are Usually Wrong
The park rules change so fast in the Galapagos that all printed guide books are out of date, even the famous Lonely Planet. Seek out current online sources for your travel information if you’re trying to visit independently, as you’ll be disappointed with the information in most guide books. I’ve seen dozens of people show up, believing their guide book is right, only to find out their Galapagos travel plans are no longer possible, or are now illegal. If you use your guide book for basics such as finding some hotels or restaurants, you should be able to find some still up-to-date information. But when it comes to visiting tourist sites that require a Naturalist Guide, either by land, or by boat, check with the locals or an actual tour company first.
3 – There are no Giant Turtles in the Galapagos
A giant tortoise (not turtle) on Floreana Island in the Galapagos
Giant turtles do not exist. Yes, there are some very big turtles. Green sea turtles that swim in the water in the Galapagos and lay their eggs on beaches can weigh hundreds of pounds. But these are green sea turtles, not a giant turtle species. The massive land animals that people come to see are giant tortoises, not turtles. Very different animals. Need to know how to tell the difference? In short – tortoises stay on land, turtles prefer the water.
4 – Charles Darwin only spent 5 Weeks in the Galapagos
Three years after Ecuador claimed the islands from Spain, Charles Darwin arrived and spent five weeks on the islands in 1835 as part of the HMS Beagle voyage captained by Robert FitzRoy. Darwin actually only visited four of the islands, and while he made many important observations at the time, it wasn’t until he arrived home in England much later on that he studied the finches and worked out his theory of evolution through natural selection – leading to his published work The Origin of Species. What is the most impressive thing you’ve accomplished after a 5-week visit somewhere?
5 – Goats have Wreaked Havoc in the Galapagos Islands
In recent decades, studies proved that feral goats were straining the local giant tortoise populations. These goats first arrived when early settlers and previous whalers and sealers visited the islands. Spreading into the highlands, their numbers increased to dangerous levels, where tortoises would starve because they couldn’t compete with the more aggressive goats, who would eat everything in their path. Eradication programs have eliminated more than 270,000+ goats in recent decades! About half of those are from Isabela Island.
A Lava Heron photographed on San Cristobal Island, Galapagos
With bright yellow eyes and colour patches around it’s bill, this little heron has a creepy silhouette to it!
Endemic to the Galapagos islands, the Lava Heron, or Galapagos Heron, is a relatively small heron that feeds mainly on crabs and fish. Their feathers and overall grey-black colour blend in perfectly with the lava rocks found along the shores of much of the Galapagos Islands. This camouflage and a stealthy ability to spear their prey with their bills makes them effective hunters.
You’ll often see them around the shoreline close to town as they have no fear of people. This one was photographed at a beach on San Cristobal Island.
Two Common Bottlenose Dolphins, photographed in the Galapagos Islands
Dolphins are a special creature. We seem to have a connection to them unlike any other animal in the sea. They’re smart, seemingly playful and downright cute.
In reality though, they are fierce and ferocious hunters, with few enemies in the sea! Despite seeing dolphins in Brazil, the Maldives, Russia, Honduras and other places, I’ve always found photographing dolphins to be a futile effort.
They follow boats or may bow ride, dipping above and below the surface at great speed. Never still, getting a good shot has always seemed impossible! But, on my last trip to the Galapagos Islands I was lucky enough to have a number of dolphins hang out with our boat for around 30 minutes. They were porpoising and bow-riding and having all sorts of fun. So, with a bit of luck and guesswork as to where they’d jump out of the water next, I was about t capture this image of two Common Bottlenose Dolphins jumping out of the water at the same time.
