Tag Archives: Hiking

Bear Safety: 20 Tips for Canadian Hikers and Campers in Bear Country

Seeing bears in the wild is an amazing, heart-pumping experience for any outdoor or wildlife lovers. But, sometimes those encounters result in serious injuries or death, often because people are not prepared for how to properly deal with wild black bears and grizzly bears.

One thing that always annoys me when I’m talking to hikers or hanging out in parks is how dismissive experienced outdoors people are towards the dangers of black bears. I’ve heard countless people say black bears are push-overs, they’re timid, easily scared and nothing to be afraid of. This is true – usually. Most people will only ever see a black bear running away into the bush as they drive down a remote road, or perhaps see one running away after it hears them on a hiking trail.

Black Bear foraging in a Meadow
Black Bear foraging in a Meadow

 

So Black Bears aren’t dangerous, right?

That “fight or flee” instinct almost always results in a black bear fleeing from you before you ever see or hear it. But people become accustomed to seeing black bears in some national, state and provincial parks across the US and Canada. Too many parks have black bear issues where bears become habituated with humans as they leave garbage and food lying around campsites. Easy food for black bears, and potential problems. These bears lose their fear of humans, and humans also become accustomed to seeing bears close by, so we lose our fear of them.

Grizzly bears still have a reputation of fearsome animals, so hikers and campers in the Rockies and western US/Canada tend to have more respect for these bears. Still, I’ve seen too many people out west with an attitude that black bears are nothing to be scared of, whee they should really treat both species with respect.

The reality of bear attacks is that black bears and grizzly bears have killed about the same number of people across Canada and the US. Black bears are much more prevalent, so the percentage of encounters that result in injuries compared to brown bears (grizzlies) is much lower, but still nothing to take for granted!

In Canada, fatal bear attacks have occurred in Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut. With the two exceptions of Nunavut (polar bears only) and Yukon (grizzly bears only), all of these provinces and territories have had fatal black bear attacks.

Don't Mess With a Momma Bear and Her Cubs
Don’t Mess With a Momma Bear and Her Cubs

 

Depending where you are hiking or camping, the local authorities may have specific instructions about how to handle bear encounters. Whether it is black bears, grizzly bears, or even polar bears that are active where you’re going to be travelling, pay attention to the local rules. Some people say to throw rocks and stones and make lots of noise when encountering a black bear. Other authorities advise to simply stay quiet and slowly back away. Some people may tell you that grizzly bears can’t climb trees – but they can. When there are active bears in popular parts of most parks, the rangers will close off trails or park areas to avoid potential bear encounters. Don’t go exploring these areas, unless you’re looking for trouble.

Now that you hopefully understand that all wild bears are potentially dangerous, here are 20 tips on how to make sure you stay safe in bear country.

Grizzly Bear in Wyoming
Grizzly Bear – Did you know they CAN climb trees?

 

Bear Safety Tips for Campers and Hikers

1. DO. Listen to local park rangers and authorities. If there is a “trouble” bear, or active bears, in the area, they will advise you on what to do.

2. DO NOT. Run from any bear. Seeing you run away will often trigger the natural instinct to chase potential prey.

3. DO. Travel with bear spray, especially in brown bear territory. Be sure you know how to use it. It is the most effective deterrent to bear attacks.

4. DO NOT. Climb a tree. Contrary to popular belief, grizzly bears can climb trees almost as easily as black bears. They can both climb faster than you.

5. DO. In the backcountry, cook food and clean dishes 100 metres away from where you are sleeping at night.

6. DO NOT. Go to sleep wearing the same clothes you wore to cook your meals.

7. DO. Hike in groups and make noise to ensure you do not surprise any bears along the trail.

8. DO NOT. Approach any bear cubs. If you see cubs, chances are the mother bear is nearby, which means danger! Back away.

9. DO. Stash your food in provided bearproof containers, in your vehicle, or in a “bear hang” between two trees.

10. DO NOT. Think you’re safe if you have a gun. Bears that are shot rarely die quickly, and often result in deaths or injuries to their shooters.

11. DO. Treat your toiletries like food. Toothpaste and deodorant smells good to bears, store it away from your tent.

12. DO NOT. Bring your pets into bear country. If you do, always keep dogs on leashes. Unleashed dogs can lure bears to your campsite.

13. DO. Maintain a “bare” campsite. This means storing away all dishes, camp stoves, coolers, bug spray, bottles – anything that smells.

14. DO NOT. Burn or bury your food scraps, as bears will be able to smell this food. Eat everything or safely store it away from your tent.

15. DO. Consider an extra large tent. Some bears may bite at objects touching the side of a tent to determine if it is potential food.

16. DO NOT. Cook strong smelling foods, such as bacon. Cook more dehydrated and pre-packed foods with less odour.

17. DO. Walk around your camp area before setting up. If you notice bear markings, scat, animal trails, berry patches, then camp elsewhere.

18. DO NOT. Ever bring food into your tent, not even a small snack on a rainy day.

19. DO. Advise park authorities of your hiking /canoeing route if you are going into the backcountry.

20. DO NOT. Stare directly at bears that are watching you. They may think of this as a threat. You want to convince them you are not a threat.

Overall, most tips are the same for black bears or grizzly bears. Bears that are standing up on their hind legs, or making huffing and snorting sounds are generally just trying to get a better look at you. They make do a false attack, or bluff, which sort of looks like they are bouncing up and down as they approach you. Most likely after getting closer they will realize you are not a threat, and turn and leave you alone.

If you do get attacked by a bear, most authorities agree that “playing dead” may be your best chance for survival from a grizzly bear attack. Lie on the ground, cover your head with your arms, and hope the grizzly bear is satisfied with your lack of threat and doesn’t deem you as food. Fighting with a grizzly bear often results in the grizzly getting more aggressive.

Blurry Black Bear
This blurry Black Bear photo is from when a bear walked into my campsite as I was setting up a tent.

 

For black bears, if they do attack, it is generally best to fight back with everything and anything you can, as they are more likely to get intimidated and run if you pose a challenge. As for polar bears, if you encounter one of them…good luck.

Follow the tips above and you should be safe in bear country. Learn to use bear spray, and spot signs of bear activity. If you come across bear activity on a trail, it is always safer to turn around and back track, or take a detour to avoid the bear area.

Have you encountered bears at your campsite or when you’ve been out on the hiking trail? Do you have any additional bear safety tips to share?

Hiking Along the Lycian Way to Oludeniz Blue Lagoon

Turkey has a surprisingly large collection of great hiking trails, something I wasn’t really aware ahead of time and left me wanting to explore more after I left. One of the most rewarding hikes I enjoyed was along the Lycian Way, ending at a great little town and beautiful beach.

Kayakoy in the Morning
Kayakoy in the Morning, starting the hike

 

Most people visit the Turkish ghost village of Kayakoy via various hiking trails that connect nearby villages to the coast. It is actually near part of the impressive Lycian Way trail route, which stretches for more than 500km and starts at nearby Oludeniz. When I visited this part of Turkey it was a good hike up and over the hills from Kayakoy to meet up with the Lycian Way trail and travel onwards to the beaches at Fethiye and Oludeniz blue lagoon.

Sheep in Kayakoy
Sheep in Kayakoy Ghost Town

 

Kayakoy Ghost Town
Kayakoy Ghost Town, restored building

 

Along the trail, abandoned buildings from the once impressive town greeted us, with churches and homes empty and open along the hillsides. A few houses are still used today, as they’ve been restored as a museum of sorts, but mostly they are all abandoned.

More than 2000 people lived here once, but the Greco-Roman War changed things. The houses and people are of Greek background, so the mandatory population exchange of 1923 meant they all had to leave, an interesting time in recent history!

Kayakoy Trail Signs
Kayakoy Trail Signpost to Oludeniz Blue Lagoon

 

Onwards from the town of Kayakoy, you get into some great tree-lined paths and coastal views. It’s a great part of the Mediterranean. Trails here head north and south and inland, but the most popular route is to head to the beach. As you approach the first area you’ll see is the beautiful Oludeniz blue lagoon, which is a national nature reserve. Beyond that is the main Oludeniz beach.

View from the Lycian Way trail
View from the Lycian Way trail, going to Oludeniz

 

Hiking Trail - Lycian Way
Hiking Trail – The Lycian Way in Turkey

 

The high-flying para gliders and boisterous beach bars in this area of the Fethiye district were quite the contrast to this quiet, crumbling town, but it was nice to have some cold beers afterwards, as summer gets pretty hot and humid along this coastal area of Turkey!

The hike itself took about 2 hours total, including stops in the ghost town and photo stops along the way. Some decent inclines happen at the start, but once you’re up in the hills, it’s a mostly flat and then downhill hike into the coastal area of Oludeniz.

Oludeniz Blue Lagoon
Oludeniz Blue Lagoon, a protected national reserve in Turkey

 

Oludeniz Beach, Turkey
Oludeniz Beach in Turkey

Burk Trail at Darlington Provincial Park

Living in Toronto, my provincial park aspirations are generally geared to parks further north, often a 6-12 hour drive away. But some weekends you don’t make grand plans, or just want to stick closer to home.

Darlington Provincial Park, located along the shores of Lake Ontario, about 85km east from Toronto is one such park that is fun to visit for a day trip and only takes about 1.5 hours to get to.

Burk Trail Sign
Burk Trail Sign at Darlington Provincial Park near Toronto

 

You’re not going to get extreme or challenging hiking, as the four trails here total no more than 7.5km in length combined, with most being rated as “easy”. It’s more of a family-friendly, social gathering and low impact type of hiking destination at Darlington Provincial Park. Many people come here to toss a frisbee around, go for a swim, and just get an escape from the cities.

Which way sign
Hmm, which way to go?

For the most part, the park is pretty wide-open, but there are some parts you can hike to that will make you feel like you have the entire place all to yourselves.

Hiking, or walking, along the Burk Trail, if your bet option for getting a bit of this escapism. The sign at the start of the trail mentions Cooper’s Hawks, songbirds and insects as the wildlife highlights. Hey – we’re not in northern Ontario here, so I’ll take what I can get!

Insects in the heat of summer can be a bit annoying, so if the mosquitos are around you may need some bug spray. It’s open fields at the start, so insects and scorching summer sun are prominent, then you get into some mix of shade and sun.

Part of the trail stops out in a big field near the lake, if you need to relax on a bench or go cool down in the water. Lots of greenery and plenty of small birds zipping about between the trees on this trail.

The lookout is probably the biggest highlight. Worth stopping for a break and quietly listening to the sounds of the insects and forest, while hoping to maybe spot one of those hawks that the trail sign mentioned.

Hiking along Burk Trail
Hiking along the mostly open field Burk Trail

 

It is a bit of a climb to get to the lookout, but nothing strenuous. The trail in total is only just over 2km in length so you’ll barely crack into your bottle of water by the time the trail ends. Well, not quite – it is a pretty open hike so a sunny summer day will keep you hot and sweaty and needing some hydration.

The lookout was a nice spot, but the pioneer cemetery wasn’t quite what I expected. A plaque tells the story of the Burk family who settled here, dating back to John Burk 1794. Perhaps they were the first people to live on this land, although it is likely that different Native American peoples passed through the area before then.

Clearing near the lake
Clearing near the lake on the Burk Trail

 

The trail is named after the Burk family, as Darlington Provincial Park comprises part of the land that they owned back in the early 1800s.

As for the cemetery itself, it’s a fenced off grid, with very little in the way of eye candy or interesting headstones. Looking at it, being maintained by the park, you can’t help but wonder how many other, similar pioneer family cemeteries might be hidden away by vegetation across Ontario.

Burk Trail Lookout
The Burk Trail Lookout, didn’t spot any Cooper’s Hawks on this day

 

The cemetery is towards the end of the trail, with a fairly flat and easy walk from here. Depending how much history and how many insect noises you want to stop and enjoy along the way, this is a quick 30 minute hike or leisurely hour long nature and bird walk.

Pioneer Cemetery
The Burk Trail Pioneer Cemetery at Darlington Provincial Park

 

Wintergreen Trail at Kettle Lakes Provincial Park

My personal alternative name for this hike in Kettle Lakes Provincial Park is “Scary Creature Trail”, but we’ll get to that soon enough.

Start of Wintergreen Trail
Start of Wintergreen Trail at Kettle Lakes PP

There are some nice hiking trails at Kettle Lakes, and this could be a favourite for many people. All trails at the park are pretty short, with this one coming in at only 1.5km in length. It has mostly minor elevation changes – nothing gruelling, but offers some great lake views.

Wintergreen Trail at Kettles Lakes starts off with lush green fields and a mix of vegetation to enjoy. You’ll find the trail starts with a bit of low lying shrubs and a sandy dirt base, as is found at many of the parks in this area of Ontario, just east of Timmins. Blueberry bushes and jack pine forest are common here in the park.

Those tall spindly pines provide a fairly open start to the trail and offer possible bird, squirrel and chipmunk sightings. It isn’t long before the vegetation changes though, into denser forest with more birch trees popping up as the trail eventually winds around Island Lake, one of the many kettle lakes formed here by the last ice age.

Walking through some overgrown shrubs along the trail, approaching the lake, was when I heard something quite loud, which stopped me in my tracks.

Just up and around the corner something was making a lot of noise, rustling through the trees, breaking branches and causing commotion. Hmmm. Deer and smaller creatures tend to move around in practical silence, so this seemed odd.

Greenery along the trail
Greenery along the Wintergreen Trail just before the scary noises…

 

Even bears, which love the blueberries around here, are generally very quiet. My heart started to race a bit as the noises got even louder and seemingly closer. Something was tearing up the forest just ahead of me and it didn’t sound friendly.

The trail was pretty narrow here. Rough terrain on the right was slightly uphill – towards the sounds, or a steep and long downhill slide that would eventually lead into Island Lake. It was going to be a jump downhill if whatever was ahead decided to come after me.

Island Lake
Stopped on the trail, above Island Lake

 

The noises got even louder, whatever it was, had reached the trail up ahead of me. Branches and twigs snapping. I waited for it to come barreling down the trail right at me, it sounded huge whatever it was!

Then the sounds started to get quieter. Moving away, moving downhill towards the lake. I cautiously moved forward on the trail, up to the corner and to where the noise had come from. I got there just in time to see the last parts of a birch tree being dragged down to the lake.

Ah ha! A beaver. I stood there near an opening in the forest and waited. Sure enough a couple of minutes later I saw the telltale ripples of a beaver swimming across the lake, with long tree in tow.

Busy busy beaver
More handiwork (toothywork?) of the busy, busy beaver

 

The beaver had obviously been busy. Surveying the area it wasn’t overly obvious that a tree had just been dragged through, unless you looked close at the small shrubs and bushes. A little ways off the trail was where the tree had been taken. It was a good 50m or more from the lake, and a fair trek uphill/downhill for that beaver. He sure earned his reward!

Walking along the trail, with nerves calmed, I soon came across another birch tree that had been freshly chewed down by the beaver. Seemed that someone had some home renovations in the works.

A felled birch tree
Another birch tree, waiting to be dragged away by the beaver

 

I left the scary beaver trail behind and admired the lake from above. There weren’t any trails to get down and see what the beaver was up to, but that was probably good – nice for them to have their peace and quiet away from us visitors, even if they caused me a bit of a noisy scare.

Island Lake, home to the Beaver
View of Island Lake at Kettle Lakes Provincial Park, home to the noisy beaver

 

Before long, I came to a clearing and end of the trail. A nice walk in the woods, with a bit of a surprise. At least now I know what a beaver dragging a tree through the forest sounds like!

Hiking with Head Hunters in Borneo

Cruising down the river in a longboat, I couldn’t help but wonder if some of the friendly Borneo people at the nearby villages might still have inklings of being Head Hunters and that there was a chance I could be in danger.

Longboats at Limbang
Our longboat ride from Limbang to the Head Hunters Trail in Borneo

 

That thinking was pretty delusional, likely brought on by a combination of extremely hot, humid weather, and me drinking cheap beers in the longboat, which I had picked up in Labuan. It did make for a more entertaining couple of hours along the river though, trying to imagine what it was like coming down this river knowing that your head could be put on a stick. I often find myself imaging what first explorers to places like Borneo went through, usually with a bit of envy that their adventures were surely more exciting than mine.

In reality, the Head Hunters Trail is just another walk in the park. A park that is a dense, muggy rainforest. With lots of leeches and near 100% humidity that kills cameras. The humidity here was so intense that my camera lenses fogged up almost instantly and even the outer protective casing of one of my lenses began to peel off. There may not be any Head Hunters here any more, but it is still an evil place for the digital traveller.

Sarawak Headhunters Trail
Near the start of the Headhunters Trail in Sarawak, Borneo

 

The hike itself is an 11km hike from Kuala Terikan to Camp 5 in the Borneo jungle and it’s all through lush green forest, with dripping wet branches and muddy pools of water everywhere – and that’s not even during the rainy season! This is leech-check territory, so keep all your pant, waist, neck and arm seams tightly closed off or else the little blood-suckers will get you!

Hiking in Borneo
Hiking along, after a leech check! Camera foggy from 100% humidity.

 

I learned here that it’s often best to be the first or second person hiking along a path where leeches may exist. It’s a case of the first person waking up the leech as they walk by and the second person aggravating (or exciting) the leech. The third person may or may not get lucky and pass by before the leech is ready to grab on…but the people after that will be facing a pathway of excited, wiggling leeches thirsty for blood.

Headhunters Trail Sign
More like the humid, leech-infested trail…

 

I did indeed have some leeches on this longboat ride and 11km hike, but they were all caught by my hiking buddies during leech checks. So none of them got past my clothing barriers, bug spray and heightened sensory awareness. I did laugh when I took a refreshing cold shower later on and saw a massively, blood-filled leech in there. It seemed that someone else had an unpleasant surprise!

So…back to the Head Hunter Trail…

If you’re lucky you will spot some wildlife along the hike, such as wild boar or porcupines or monkeys. More than likely you’ll hear a lot of birds and rustling of animals in the forest, but won’t see that much. The hike is done over average terrain, nothing too intense, except that the weather zaps your energy pretty quickly, especially as you’ll be carrying your backpack on this little trek. (Another reason why I was drinking those beers early in the day…to lighten the load!)

Camp 5 - Headhunters Trail
Camp 5 along the Headhunters Trail in Borneo

 

At the end of the 11km hike, you emerge from the forest and come to a picturesque setting on the edge of the limestone cliffs. A river presents itself for swimming and a suspension bridge symbolizes the end of the trail (or start if you’re going in reverse). Here is Camp 5, and after a few hours of getting dirty and sweaty in the jungle, a cold beer and dormitory bed seem like luxury – a decent reward for surviving the Head Hunters Trail.

Camp 5 in the rain
Raining at Camp 5, don’t expect your clothes to dry here!