Sri Lanka is a wonderful country and the day I spent driving through the Nuwara Eliya highlands was one of my favourites. The cool breeze and lush landscapes hiding secret waterfalls were a nice nature break from the city life I had been living for a few days back in Kandy.

 

A lunch time stop at a tea plantation was the perfect way to break up the day. I had a personal tour all to myself and was surprised just how much effort, and pride, goes into making tea in Sri Lanka! After buying some packages to bring home for friends, and sampling some myself, I was off to go higher into the mountains for a good nights rest.

 

Now, I should point out that when I visited Sri Lanka it was near the end of their civil war battles in 2009. Tourists were few and far between, while tanks, fighter jets and road blocks were common sights.

But up here in the mountains it was quite peaceful and I was happy to enjoy some quiet time.

Once again, I learned that I was the only guest – yes only guest – at the hotel that evening. When you’re the only guest in a large hotel it means that the bartender, cook, bellman, manager, front desk clerk and cleaning staff all usually know your name and where you’re from. It is a bit intimidating and uncomfortable really. Such a level of customer service I’ve never experienced anywhere else before, or since.

 

This great customer service was no exception at Nuwara Eliya. After checking in I was informed of when dinner was being served and had a couple of hours to myself. The staff made sure I was happy with my room and that I had everything I needed.

Relaxing out on my front patio, drinking a beer and snacking on fresh cashews, I watched a nearby cascading waterfall while the sun set over the mountains. One of those romantic settings from a travel brochure, all for me to enjoy!

With the sun gone it was off to eat, by myself, again.

As I entered the dining room, I was intimidated. This hotel had obviously seen better days, as the grand dining room was lined with framed pictures on the walls giving it an air of importance from another era.

 

The dining room was large, seating for more than 100 guests I imagined, complete with a lounge and seperate bar area. It was all dimly lit, partly for romance and partly to hide the dirt and aging infrastructure.

I ventured in and was greeted by a smiling waiter. Looking around, I confirmed that it was only me who would be dining on this night.

Impeccably set tables all around me, I was seated by the friendly waiter and informed of my meal options. He knew I was Canadian, so we had a brief chat about snow before he vanished away to the kitchen. I ordered a beer and snacked on some bread while I waited for the first course to arrive – French onion soup.

 

It is a weird, awkward feeling being in such a cavernous room all by yourself with nobody else around. You feel like you’re being watched and there isn’t really anything to stare at after a while, so you just sit there in silence. I pretended to read the book I had with me, but the silence was too distracting.

Finally, the French onion soup arrived. It looked delicious!

Before I sampled it, The waiter asked if I would like some music while I enjoyed my meal. Hmm, sure, why not…it will do well to break that awkward silence.

 

So he wanders over towards the old wooden bar and after a minute or two, finds something worthy of accompanying my meal.

I hear the crackling of the speakers come to life, realizing that a vinyl record has been put in motion.

As the waiter fades away through the kitchen doors, I dip my spoon into my soup, and a recognizable Canadian voice begins to sing and fill the otherwise empty room.

My thoughtful waiter had carefully selected a special song just for me: My Heart Will Go On by Celine Dion.

For the rest of the meal, I sat by myself in this somewhat dated yet still romantic dining room, being serenaded by the songs of Celine Dion.

Just another fun day in Sri Lanka…happy Valentine’s Day everyone!

Travel triangles seem pretty popular. Maybe it’s a sneaky way to trap tourists into visiting a triage of destinations? Or maybe they’re all legit attractions in their own rite. Some, like the Bermuda triangle are surrounded with mystery and intrigue, some are natural wonders and others are culturally significant attractions. Whatever their role, the most impressive travel triangle I have enjoyed visiting is the cultural triangle in the interior of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle

This travel triangle of ancient sites provides a glimpse into the history of Sri Lanka. All vastly different in appearance, and spread out across the country, the cultural sites of Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura make up the main attractions, however the Dambulla caves and Mihintale mountain are also worth visiting, as is the city of Kandy which serves as the southern border to this triangle.

Anuradhapura, is the most northern tip of the triangle, in central Sri Lanka. Once the capital of Sri Lanka, this ancient city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mostly in ruins, some stupas remain in great condition and there are finely detailed carvings, stones and paintings around the area.

This is a major pilgrimage site for Buddhism as the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi tree is found here.  This sacred fig tree was planted nearly 2300 years ago, making it the oldest known planted tree in the world. This Bodhi tree is believed to have been planted from part of the tree in which the Buddha achieved enlightenment. When I visited there were literally hundreds of young monks visiting the site, most for the first time. It was fun to watch the young monks laugh and have fun at a place of such spiritual importance.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Polonnaruwa lies further east, in central Sri Lanka and is most famously known for it’s rock carvings and statues.

The rock temple of Gal Vihara is a collection of Buddha carvings, with the giant reclining Buddha being one of the most famous sites in all of Sri Lanka. There is a lot more to see here too, so staying a night or two in the modern, clean city of Polonnaruwa is well worth it. The ruins are nearby and a great way to get around to see the ancient sites is to rent a bicycle.

Finally, Sigiriya, my favourite must-visit destination along the cultural triangle route. Lying further south in Central Sri Lanka, Sigiriya enjoys greener, more natural surroundings. As you approach the area, the landscape is mainly flat grasslands, until you see this one giant rock. Once a strategicaly important rock fortress, Sigiriya is also known as Lion Rock as the gateway to climb to the peak of the rock was once carved in the shape of a huge lion. Today, only the giant carved lion paws remain.

There are beautiful gardens and walking paths in the area, and as you climb Sigiriya, you’ll spot some of the best rock paintings in all of Sri Lanka. There is also a strangely interesting mirror wall. This rock wall was once polished so finely that you could see your reflection on it! Views from the top of Sigiriya are worth the effort of climbing the steep stairs bolted into the rock.

Other stops along the route. The Golden Buddha is massive! It is close to the entrance to the Dambulla caves. The Temple of the Tooth is in Kandy, and is said to house an actual tooth from Buddha. Worth visiting if you can handle the crowds and heat – you only get a fleeting, obstructed glimpse of the tooth at certain times of the day. Mihintale is a climb and a half. Lots of stairs up to the top of a mountain but well worth, it especially at sunset. You might just catch a monk or two hanging around on top of the mountain too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While Sri Lanka may be rich in cultural history, the country also boasts an abundance of wildlife, including leopards, bears and elephants. If you like hot, spicy food then you’ll also love Sri Lanka!