I’ve only been walking for 10 minutes, but all I’m saying to myself is “Death Valley, what the hell!?”
Badwater Basin. The lowest point in North America at -282ft below sea level is turning up the heat this late afternoon. It’s not even summer yet, as I visited in early June, but the temperature is at 120F, or 49C. I parked the car in the parking lot and went for a walk out onto the open salt flats – because why not wander out into the searing heat without a single tree or source of shade nearby?
I feel like I am being burned from all directions.
The sun is pounding down from a nearly cloudless sky. It seems to be mocking the hat I have on, as if it will really do me any good in this crazy heat.
The ground is caked dry. Save for a few weird holes dug into the salty surface that exude a gooey liquid. Likely some salty brine. Some brown, some white, the ground itself also mocks you in Badwater Basin. Protect yourself from the sun as much as you want, don’t forget about some searing heat and reflections from the ground too.
I have been outside for almost 15 minutes now, and I recall the guy on the radio saying you burn in 5 minutes in these conditions. Being cooked from above and below, I feel like I am good to keep going further to a spot that looks like it will make for a scenic photo.
There is only one other person out this far in Badwater Basin, everyone else took a short 5 minute or less jaunt before scurrying back to their cool cars. Part of why I think I am good to keep going is because of the strong wind blowing.
Sure, the wind is hot. Like standing in front of a furnace. So it is stupidly dry too. I think it was 3% humidity out. Basically pure dryness. So I’m not sweating. My lips want to crack and throat is dry, but at least it isn’t humid and I “feel strong” so keep on walking.
A few minutes later I turn around to take some photos. Now, not facing the sun and wind, I can feel that I am indeed starting to burn already. Also, yep, I’m a bit tired. Not exhausted or anything, but I can definitely tell this climate is doing its best to destroy me.
I am about half as far as I wanted to go. But I swallow my pride, tell Death Valley to screw itself one more time, and begin the walk back to my car. I’m out on the flat lands of Badwater Basin for maybe 30 minutes in late afternoon in early June.
But when I do get back into my car, my body seems to want to overheat. Weird. I felt great, if not a bit tired, when hiking out there. But the actual surface of my skin is crazy hot. I start to sweat in the car. I don’t have heat stroke or anything, it is just kind of weird that I was so dry outside and now I’m sweating.
I guzzle a litre of water like it’s a shot glass and realize how crazy quick you can get dehydrated in Death Valley National Park. I start to wonder if my decision to camp in Death Valley overnight might not be the smartest move.
Then it dawns on me that people actually lived and worked here. Some people still do! Who would ever want to live here? The thought of working in the old mining operations, or living in the area out of choice seems ridiculous. There are places on earth where we are not meant to be, and despite its beauty, I think Death Valley is one of them.
With that said, I’d love to return and visit again, ha! Maybe with an extra thick layer of sunscreen next time.
Chose to drive to LA via death valley as a last-minute change of plan and we were never disappointed. Stopped at Badwater for a walk but had to return quickly due to the heat. Driving through the beautiful plains, at times we felt we were the only living things left on this valley. Great views and challenges for the gear-heads.
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I’ve been there in December 2018, and even in winter, it was quite hot (around 25°C degrees). I remember it was an amazing experience, and we were able to enjoy a very nice (and long) walk there! So, I’d recommend going in December haha
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