Category Archives: Travel Articles

Articles, stories and advice on travel.

Icebergs of Antarctica

The first hint that you’re approaching the Antarctic continent is the sighting of icebergs.

As icebergs become more plentiful, excitement grows, anticipating your first sighting of land in two or more days. They’re the precursor to the real allure of Antarctica – penguins and seals.

 

Iceberg in Antarctica
A typical iceberg in Antarctica

 

 

Yet, somehow as the days of an Antarctic adventure go on, you can’t help but be mesmerized by the varying shapes and sizes of the icebergs you cruise by.

You begin to learn a new lingo. You start talking about pancake ice, bergy bits and tabular icebergs. The bergy bits being smaller chunks floating in the water, while tabular icebergs can be behemoths larger than your average multi-story apartment building.

UNderexposed iceberg
A gloomy, underexposed iceberg in Antarctica

 

You learn that only 10% or so of the iceberg is actually visible above water, the rest hiding under the surface.

You see different coloured icebergs too, with blueish tints, sometimes quite dark and dense – hints that the iceberg was made of older, compacted ice which broke off from an ancient glacier.

Ice Cream Iceberg
Who wants a scoop of ice cream? An ice cream iceberg in Antarctica

 

Different types and colours abound, as do shapes. One iceberg may look like an animal, another could look like a scoop of ice cream.

Tabular iceberg
A city block sized tabular iceberg floating off the coast of Antarctica

 

Far away from the remote control and constant visual stimulation we’re so used to, icebergs take on the role of entertainer when you’re not communing with the wildlife in Antarctica. Your imagination takes hold and before you know it, these chunks of ice become one of the most exciting parts of your day.

Visiting a Top Secret Russian Submarine Base

After landing in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky in Kamchatka, I had a couple of days to relax before exploring the Commander Islands and Kuril Islands off the coast of Russia.

Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky, Russia
Drab buildings before a stunning volcanic backdrop, this is Petropavlovsk Kamchatsky in Far East Russia

 

This is the part of Russia beyond Siberia. The eastern edge of the largest country in the world. In Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, or PK as they say, everything seemed stuck in time. Old concrete block buildings everywhere. Nothing new, bright or exciting. As drab as it was, I loved it, and didn’t care that many Russians call PK the ugliest city in Russia.

This was just a temporary stop. I had islands to explore, and one that I was looking forward to most was Simushir Island in the Kurils. The island was mostly uninhabited over the years, but a size-able settlement was functioning here for nearly 20 years, with a top secret submarine base operating at Broutona Bay from about 1987 to 1994.

Simushir Island in the Kuril Islands
Broutona Bay, once home to a top secret Russian Submarien Base on Simushir Island in the Kuril Islands

 

It was abruptly abandoned one day, leaving behind relics and buildings that tantalize your imagination. Plenty of Soviet Era artwork still adorns the walls in the empty buildings too.

Once home to thousands of people, the settlement had a hospital, large apartment blocks, school, livestock pens – now all lying in ruins. Books are scattered on the floor. Gun turrets rust outdoors, having never fired a shot. A shoe repair shop has half-finished repairs lying about and trucks now sit idle in fields being recaptured by nature.

Unfinished Shoe Repairs, Broutona Bay
Unfinished Shoe Repairs at Broutona Bay on Simushir Island

 

It’s a spooky place in some ways, but fascinating at the same time.

The setting is beautiful. A large volcano in the background, a sheltered bay and beach out front. Wild foxes and birds all about. You can really envision families living here and having a good life. But then it all ended.

Broutona Bay, Russia
Not a bad view – looking out a window to Broutona Bay on Simushir Island

 

Where did they all go? Why did they abandon the settlement? Did they move to another top secret submarine base we don’t know about, or was it just time to close up shop and send everyone back to more populous cities?

Gun Turret on Simushir Island
A Gun Turret at the abandoned submarine base on Simushir Island

 

Today, very few people visit this island. Perhaps some Russian fishing boats stop by now and then. Only a handful of tourist boats ever make it out here in any given year. It feels more like an outdoor museum than anything else.

Definitely a place unlike any other that I have visited. It made me wonder though, how many of these abandoned settlements exist throughout Russia?

Abandoned trucks on Simushir Island, Russia
Abandoned trucks on Simushir Island, Kuril Islands, Russia

 

Hospital Operating Room, Simushir Island
Hospital Operating Room at Broutona Bay on Simushir Island

 

Apartment Building - Broutona Bay
Old abandoned apartment building at Broutona Bay

 

Simushir Island – Cold War Art in the Kuril Islands

Since I enjoy visiting far flung destinations, my Russian travel experience was short on cities like Moscow and big on remote island chains like the Commander and Kuril Islands in Far East Russia.

One of those islands just happened to have some interesting Cold War artwork and murals lying about – 20+ years after the settlement had been abandoned.

Tank and Solider Artwork - Simushir Island
Tank and Solider Artwork – At the Abandoned Submarine Base on Simushir Island

 

Simushir Island is a remote island in the Kuril Islands, which was once home to a thriving community at Broutona Bay. Now, less than 20 years after it was abandoned it is back on the map and can be visited by intrepid travellers who venture to Far East Russia.

Art Murals on Simushir Island, Russia
Some of the more peaceful murals seen at an abandoned village on Simushir Island, Russia

 

One thing that stood out while walking through the eerily quiet buildings was the art work found on walls, including murals, mostly all paying homage to the Soviet Era rule and importance of strength and might during the Cold War era. Here, propaganda seemed to run rampant.

Kuril Islands - Broutona Bay War Mural
A War Mural at Broutona Bay in the Kuril Islands, Russia

 

In the Kuril Islands, the battle was, and still is, with Japan. These disputed islands remain a source of contention, claimed by both Russia and Japan. The international community largely keeps out of this controversy, but the US has acknowledged that they believe Japan is the rightful owner of the islands. That surely doesn’t make Russia happy.

Back to the artwork! From images of tanks to murals of Lenin and cosmonauts, this was one of those places that seems a bit frozen in time.

Simushir Island - Russian Mural
Russian Mural on Simushir Island in The Kuril Islands

 

A Mural of Lenin on Simushir Island
A Mural of Lenin on Simushir Island in Far East Russia

 

Lenin is prominent in this abandoned settlement. Not surprising really, as from what I gathered from the people at a couple of settlements on other islands in this far end of Russia, they feel somewhat forgotten by the current leadership back in Moscow. At least when Lenin was around, they had supplies and infrastructure and purpose.

After visiting Simushir Island, I couldn’t help but think that the few inhabited islands I visited would one day have a similar fate. I suppose only time will tell.

 

Abandoned Art Room at Broutona Bay
Abandoned Art Room at Broutona Bay on Simushir Island, Russia

 

 

Six Great Day Hikes in Ontario

The start of October also marks the start of Ontario Hiking Week, so it seems the perfect time to put together a few photos from some of my favourite day hiking trails from the Ontario Provincial Parks that I have visited.

I’ve hiked all around Ontario, from the shores of Lake Superior to the Niagara Escarpment to the southern tip of Point Pelee. It’s not easy choosing just six hikes that stand out, but these ones are some of the most enjoyable short hikes I’ve come across.

#6 – Kabeyun Trail, Sleeping Giant Provincial Park (40km)

Sea Lion Rock in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park
Sea Lion Rock, a highlight on a side trail of the Kabeyun Trail

 

As with many parks further north in Ontario, hiking opportunities are plentiful, with many more options than you see at parks in Central or Southern Ontario. In total, Sleeping Giant boasts 17 different hiking trails, ranging from easy strolls to tough multi-day treks. The Kabeyun is known as a challenging hike with excellent wildlife viewing opportunities and plenty of great scenic lookouts.

You don’t have to do the entire hike to appreciate it, this photo is of ‘Sea Lion Rock’ (the head of the sea lion broke off years ago), which is only a hike of a few kilometres from the trailhead parking lot.

#5 – Mizzy Lake Trail, Algonquin Provincial Park (11km)

Mizzy Lake Trail - Moose
A juvenile Moose in the forest on Mizzy Lake Trail

 

More famous for canoeing routes, Algonquin Park also offers great hiking options, with 13 hikes along the popular Highway 60 corridor and numerous hikes accessible via other entry points.

Of all the hikes along the corridor, Mizzy Lake stands out for a few reasons. First, it is an ideal day-hike length of 11km, taking you anywhere from 3.5-6 hours depending on how often you stop and what your hiking speed is.

The Mizzy Lake Trail also passes through a great variety of landscapes, from open forest, to dense pines and shores of lakes. Wildlife viewing here is the best of any trail, with patient hikers being able to catch glimpses of everything from chipmunks to moose. This is also the only trail along the corridor that does not allow dogs on the trail, so as not to disturb the wildlife. (Note, however that you may encounter hiking groups along the flat and easy ‘old railway’ portion of the trail that have dogs.)

#4 – Mayflower Lake Trail, Arrowhead Provincial Park (1km)

Mayflower Lake Trail - Beaver Lodge
Green scenery and a Beaver Lodge along Mayflower Lake Trail

 

Arrowhead Provincial Park is a fun park to visit on a weekend, as the handful of trails on offer total only 13km, making it easy to hike all of the trails and enjoy the rest of the park over 2-3 days. The Beaver Meadow Trail is the only one of substantial length, at 7km, but I found the short Mayflower Lake Trail to be the most impressive, and conducive to photography.

If you are like me and like to take photos of nature, then the Mayflower Trail hike provides some nice green scenery and points of interest. Beaver lodges, rocky shorelines, changing trail conditions and a variety of plants make it a fun, short hike.

#3 – Agawa Rock Indian Pictographs Trail, Lake Superior Provincial Park (0.4km)

Agawa Rock Indian Pictograph
A pictograph, or rock painting, along the shores of Lake Superior Provincial Park

 

The shortest trail on this list, it is also one of the most interesting. Few places in Ontario let you get so close to a piece of history as this trail does.

Some of the most impressive and most accessible pictographs are found along the rocky shoreline on this trail. It has a steep and sometimes slippery descent to view the pictographs up close, but on a clear day it’s well worth a glimpse of centuries old Indian rock paintings.

#2 – Chikanishing Trail, Killarney Provincial Park (3km)

Chikanishing Trail in Killarney
Windswept trees and coastal Georgian Bay views of the Chikanishing Trail

 

For such a large park, Killarney has surprisingly few hiking trails if you skip doing any section of the 100km long La Cloche Silhouette Trail. Yet, the few trails it offers are all superb, with different landscapes and environments. The Chikanishing Trail is my personal favourite on a nice day, as it offers a pleasant hike along ridges and shorelines of Georgian Bay.

A great hike for staring out across the water and watching kayakers go by, or for stopping along the rocky ridge line for a picnic.

#1 – Etienne Trail, Samuel de Champlain Provincial Park (2.5-9km)

Etienne Trail - Nature Loop
Relaxing along the Nature Loop of Etienne Trail in Samuel de Champlain Provincial Park

 

Nestled above the immense Algonquin Park, getting to Samuel de Champlain park is a bit of a chore for people from Southern Ontario. It is well worth the effort though.

There are no simple ‘boardwalk’ hikes here. Each of the hikes at Samuel de Champlain has a bit of a challenge to it, and the Etienne Trail is the best of the bunch. This trail is actually comprised of three loops, so you can pick and choose the length of your hike based on your interests. I suggest doing all three loops for 9km, but in the least, don’t skip the Nature Loop part of the Etienne Trail.

Around the beautiful Long Lake, the Nature Loop offers a fun trail with plenty of rewarding lookouts, as well as potential animal encounters. This is the kind of trail that can be enjoyed by virtually any park visitor – from hikers and wildlife enthusiasts to photographers.

Enjoy Ontario Hiking Week! Hope you have time to get out and explore a nearby park.

The Final Eight Destinations

The Travel Match challenge on Twitter (#TravelMatch) has filtered out 234 countries and destinations so far.

After 104 Matches, only seven competitions remain to choose the ultimate winner.

We’ve got some tiny little nations and islands competing against an entire continent. We’ve got plenty of communism to go around as well. Party in Rio or pray in Lhasa? If anything, the eight finalists are a diverse collection of destinations.

Europe almost joined North America and the South Pacific as an extinct Travel Match destination, but the Faroe Islands kept it alive; while Ethiopia remains Africa’s last chance at winning it all.

Only Asia and South America have more than one destination still in the running. So who is it going to be?

Let’s take a look at how each of these destinations won it’s way to the quarter-finals.

Gentoo Penguin
Gentoo Penguin at Paradise Bay, Antarctica

 

Antarctica

Left in it’s wake lie the defeated nations and destinations of Antigua, Azerbaijan, Greenland, South Georgia, Madagascar and Trinidad & Tobago.

Curiosity, penguins and remoteness have lured in its voters, although of all the finalists it has the largest loyal base of people who have said they’d ‘return again’ in a heartbeat.

Bhutan

This diverse country has everything from lush forests to soaring mountains and has rode the ‘Gross National Happiness’ wave of success so far. In it’s shadow lies the defeated destinations of Bolivia, Botswana, Laos, Burma, Turkey and Papua New Guinea.

Bhutan has had both easy wins and close calls in it’s quest for the best. With another Himalayan destination in the finals – Tibet – it will be interesting to see how it fares in it’s next challenge.

Ilha Grande, Brazil
Relaxing off the coast of Ilha Grande, Brazil

 

Brazil

Images of Copacabana Beach and Carnival in Rio seem to have a strong pull in the Twitter travel world as Brazil has only had one otehr destination give it any real challenge up to now. That was the Phillippines. But Brazil proved too desirable for them in the end. Along with the Philippines, Brazil defeated Vanuatu, Guyana, Ecuador, Belize and Burundi on it’s path the the final eight.

Brazil is easily the biggest country remaining in the competition, but not the biggest destination as Antarctica looms in the background. Icy penguins or cool caipirinhas?

Cuba

Get there before you can’ has been the motto and driving force behind Cuba’s Travel Match success, with plenty of US-based Travel Match voters choosing Cuba. This fiesty littel country has squared off against some heavyweights and beat them all, most notably a close match against India. In addition to India, Cuba has conquered Gabon, Cyprus, Congo, Panama and the Cook Islands.

The landscape in Cuba is changing and will continue to change, so it is not surprising that many people want to experience the old charm that Cuba holds before it’s too late.

Ethiopia

The longest-standing Travel Match destination still in the running. Ethiopia first appeared in travel Match #8 in early 2010. Seems fitting for Ehtiopia, as it has been dubbed the Cradle of Mankind. A bit of a dark horse, Ethiopia has been chaleneged in each battle so far. But Egypt, El Salvador, Cameroon, Nigeria, Curacao and Mozambique all fell short.

Why has Ethiopia won? The diverse ethnic groups and impressive rock churches like at Lalibella are part of it, but there hasn’t been any real consensus as to why Twitter travellers choose Ethiopia.

Faroe Islands

The fate of Europe remains in the hands of this little island nation half way between Iceland and mainland Europe. A cult-like following on twitter has helped the Faroes catapult themselves into a surprise spot in the final eight. Behind them are the shattered dreams of people who voted for Fiji, France, Denmark, Norway, Montenegro and Hungary.

France gave them the hardest battle, in a very narrow victory. Can this relatively unknown place continue it’s streak of luck in the next round? Time will tell.

Blue Footed Booby Birds
Blue Footed Booby Birds in the Galapagos Islands

 

Galapagos Islands

Another archipelago has built a loyal Travel Match following. The Galapagos are known as a wildlife lovers paradise and the sheer volume of votes they have received in their matches can attest to that. This wild island charm has seen the Galapagos somewhat handily defeat Ghana, Georgia, Argentina, Colombia, Uganda and Jordan in it’s past battles.

Islands have a special appeal to them, but aside from pure nature, the Galapagos wildlife may not appeal to the party people. Can they hang on and push on through to the next round?

Tibet

Controversial to many, travelling to Tibet may mean you’re supporting China more than you think. But Travel Match is about where you want to travel, without any consequences, so Tibet has had a pretty easy ride up to now. As peaceful as they are, voters had led the Tibetan people to victory, squashing the likes of Timor-Leste, Togo, Nepal, China, Kazakhstan and Switzerland along the way.

Tibet isn’t the only Himalayan destination left, and political issues may keep it from pushing on. However, they’ve defeated China in Travel Match challenges, so never underestiamte the little guy.

Quarter-Final Matches start in October

There you have the eight finalists. New matches start soon, with a small twist.

All future matches will feature only two destinations. That should make it easier to choose your favourite, or will it?

So, while you wait – who do you predict will win it all?