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The Story of Geckozilla and the Thing Living in the Wall

It all began with a quiet scratching sound emanating from within the wall. Just beside my bed. Gradually the sound got louder, quicker. Then it was gone…

View of the Kinabatangan River
Misty morning at the Kinabatangan Jungle Camp

I’d been in Borneo for about a week, spending time exploring Mt. Kinabalu and most of the Sabah region.

It had mostly been a urban adventure up to now, cities and night markets and beaches and BBQ’s. But we had now arrived in a more wild part of Borneo.

The Kinabatangan River. This river is one of the last great wildlife refuges in Borneo where orangutans, pygmy elephants, rhinos, proboscis monkeys and an abundance of bird life still flourish.

Big Bird at Kinabatangan River
One of many birds at Kinabatangan Jungle Camp

It is also home to Geckozilla.

Now, I love Gecko’s. They’re usually a cool green colour, move kind of funny and remind me I’m in a tropical place – not at home. I admire the way they seem to glue themselves to walls and stealthily stalk flies and other prey, even smaller Gecko’s. Indeed, Gecko’s had a happy place in my travel heart – until I encountered Geckozilla.

Some memories are a bit fuzzy, perhaps subconsciously hidden in the deep, dark parts of my brain for my own sanity. But I’ll try to piece together the events leading up to when I was attacked by Geckozilla.

Day 1

Arrival at our jungle camp along the Kinabatangan River in Borneo. There are friendly land monitors and big birds hanging around. Our lodge is only accessible by boat, or a very lengthy hike through the jungle. A bit of paradise. The only place you might get a cell phone signal is right at the river’s edge.

In Search of Wildlife - Kinabatangan River
Kinabatangan River, Looking for Wildlife

I didn’t even try, I was there to enjoy nature.

All seems peaceful and relaxed. The lodge owner talks politics and likes that I’m from Canada. I drop off my bag in the simple rustic chalet,  then head off for a longboat ride down the river in search of wildlife.

Monkeys, hornbills and more delight us all. We return back to the lodge for dinner and a much needed rest.

Proboscis Monkey - Kinabatangan River
The Kinabatangan River in Borneo is home to many Proboscis Monkeys

As I turn off the lights and lay my head down I hear a rustling inside the wall. Something wants to get out.

I turn over and ignore it, but it won’t go away.

Like the childhood boogeyman in the closet I take the ‘if you can’t see it, it doesn’t exist’ approach and put on some headphones. It works to drown out the noise, until the pauses between songs. Exhausted, I finally fall asleep.

Day 2 Early Morning

Waking early in hopes of more wildlife sightings I mention the thing living in the wall to my room mate. His non-reaction does little to calm my nerves. Seems he didn’t hear it.

Looking at the wall beside my bed I notice a rather large metal grate. About mattress height off the floor, and about a foot from where my head was lying at night. It seems out of place and serves no real function. Then it dawns on me that the grate is there for a singular purpose – to ensure the thing living in the wall, stays in the wall. Crap.

Heading off to breakfast I point the grate out to my room mate. He is slowly coming around and no longer thinks I am delusional about the thing living in the wall.

Day 2 Late Morning

Lots of birds and two wild orangutans were the highlight of the morning boat journey. Everyone is happy. We return from the boat ride and head to our cabins to prepare for a jungle walk to get closer to the critters of Borneo.

Hike at Kinabatangan Jungle Camp
Headed out for a wildlife hike in Borneo

Back in the cabin there are no signs of foul play or animals lurking where they don’t belong. The wall is quiet.

Then something catches my eye as I go to leave the cabin. It’s in the shadows and scurries away. A Gecko, I think…but it seemed awfully large. Hmmm. No time to investigate, must head off on a jungle hike…

Day 2 Early Evening

Quiet time in the cabin to get cleaned up, do some reading and wait for dinner. We’d had an extra amazing afternoon. Reports of pygmy elephants down the river proved fruitful and we had seen some of the most amazing creatures in all of Borneo, plus more proboscis monkeys.

Kinabatangan River - Pygmy Elephant
One of the Pygmy Elephants seen along the Kinabatangan River

The creature in the wall and the large Gecko-like thing I saw were now the main topic of conversation in our cabin. Was it a Gecko? How big was it? How was it making so much noise when they’re usually so quiet? Both my room mate and I were a bit on edge now. Time for some beers and some food to take that edge off.

Day 2 Night
After celebrating a friend’s birthday late into the night, we’re happily fed and full of beer as we return to our cabin.

With the flick of the light switch, we immediately notice something different. There is a large object on the wall. There it goes -scurrying across the wall towards the bathroom!

We cautiously approach and see what must be the largest Gecko in the world. Both my room mate and I are spellbound by it’s size. It’s more brown than green, and blends in well with the wood cabin. But it is just a Gecko, and a huge sense of relief comes over us. Sure, probably it was just this big Gecko making those noises in the wall. Ha, funny…being afraid of a Gecko. We have a good chuckle.

Geckozilla from Borneo
The fearless, leaping Geckozilla

Not long after, it’s time for sleep.

I find myself standing in the small bathroom, brushing my teeth. The Gecko of unbelievable size has scurried into the corner of the shower and is watching me intently. He chirps a couple of times from the relative darkness. How nice. Cute big Gecko.

Then it happens…he attacks!

Without provocation, without warning. As I’m brush my teeth, Geckozilla lunges from his perch high above my head and comes sailing down, head first, legs out, directly for me! I spot his attack from the corner of my eye and move slightly. He misses, but lands on my foot! I’ve been hit!

I let out a series of incoherent expletives and jump back out of the bathroom.

geckozilla in Borneo, closeup
Notice the huge feet and eyes on Geckozilla

My room mate comes to investigate and I tell him I’ve been attacked by Geckozilla. It’s not a friendly Gecko after all, this is a blood-sucking man-eater of a Gecko. The lunge must’ve been at least 10 feet, a jump that surely would have injured a lesser Gecko.

Grabbing cameras, we both peer back into the bathroom, trying to locate the killer Gecko. Where is Geckozilla hiding?

He scampers from under the sink over the the shower and makes a run for the shower drain (half the size of the wall grate beside my bed). It’s closed. He can’t escape back to his lair inside the walls from there. He runs up the wall and towards the window, sneaking outside through a thin crack.

With the heart beat back to normal, I finish brushing my teeth.

Turning the bathroom light off we joke about Geckozilla and his brazen attempt on my life. Crazy how such an innocent looking creature could create so much noise in the wall. We’re just happy that he’s out of the cabin and we can get a good night’s sleep tonight.

I head to bed. Cabin light is turned off. Room mate and I say goodnight, thoughts moving on towards tomorrow.

A few seconds later there is a loud scratching a clawing at the grate beside my bed. But this time it goes on longer. It’s louder. Something is about to break through!

Then there is the sound of claws running up the other side of the wall, across the ceiling towards the end of our cabin, where the bathroom is. Finally, a loud metal crashing sound as the beast, the thing living in the wall, leapt from the roof of our cabin into the nearby jungle trees.

‘What the f@ck was that!?’ was all we said.

7 Wonders of Central America

Central America is perfectly suited for both short-term or long-term travelling. A collection of seven countries, conveniently wedged together so that a border crossing is rarely more than a half day bus ride away. You can just as easily immerse yourself in one country or visit all seven.
A Raggamuffin tours boat going snorkelling
Headed out to the Belize Barrier Reef with Raggamuffin Tours

 

Each country – Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama – has it’s own allure. Costa Rica may get a lot of the glory, but I’m only willing to give it one wonder from this Central America list.

Seven countries for seven wonders, right? I could just name each individual country as a wonder in itself, but that would be too easy. Lucky for me I’ve travelled through a lot of Central America and can say picking only seven wonders was pretty tough. I’m sure some will disagree with these choices too. If so, let me know!

So, here are some top spots you won’t want to miss while venturing around Central.

Wonder #1 from Belize: The Belize Barrier Reef
When you hear people from Australia say that the snorkelling and diving here is better than the Great Barrier Reef (which I did hear more than once), you have to stop and take notice! At 300km long it is a part of the world’s second largest reef and sports more than 500 species of fish. What makes it even better is easy access from Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, two laid back islands off the coast of Belize where coconuts and Belikin beers are as plentiful as the underwater wildlife.

Wonder #2 from Guatemala: Tikal Mayan Ruins
One of the most impressive of all Mayan sites, Tikal is a massive complex of pyramids and structures set deep in the Guatemalan jungle. Colourful birds and prehistoric-sounding howler monkeys call this place home. You’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time as you wander around Tikal and soak up so much ancient history. The stories that these structures could tell, but don’t worry the local guides here do a great job of bringing it all to life.

Wonder #3 from El Salvador: Cerro Verde National Park
There is remarkable nature to be discovered in El Salvador, and the Santa Ana Volcano, which lies in Cerro Verde Park is one of the best attractions. It is one of three volcanoes in the park that offers challenging nature treks to the heights of this often overlooked Central American country. While there are multi-day treks that are available, if you’re short on time it is possible to climb to the top of one of these volcanoes in only a few hours. Santa Ana gets my nod as it offers the best panoramic views and takes you past some impressive crater lakes. The nearby areas are home to many indigenous people too, making for a great culture and climbing combination.

Wonder #4 from Honduras: The Ruins of Copan
The site of Copan in Honduras represents the southern extremity for the Mayan civilization and offers a great contrast to the jungle pyramids and complex seen in Mexico and Guatemala. Here, you’ll be treated to intricately carved stellae unseen at other Mayan sites. With wide open spaces, the site is easy to walk around and a great spot to stop, relax and have a picnic or soak up the sun.

Wonder #5 from Nicaragua: The City of Granada
Colourful colonial buildings are commonplace in Granada, which I think is one of the most attractive cities in all of Central America. A great place to base yourself and spend extra time, Granada lies on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, a popular area for swimming and beach time for locals. It is an especially busy place around the Holy Week of Semana Santa. Cheap food and drink as well as easy access to some popular nature spots like Masaya Volcano make Granada my choice for favourite colonial city in Central America (sorry Antigua!).

Wonder #6 from Costa Rica: The Osa Peninsula
Down the the far southern reaches of Costa Rica is a peninsula that is one of the most bio-diverse places in Central America. Small towns and totally relaxing beach areas are countered with the impressive Corcovado National Park, perhaps the wildest place in all of Costa Rica. Don’t believe me? Well National Geographic called it the “most biologically intense place on Earth.”

Wonder #7 from Panama: The Panama Canal
The most modern wonder of my Central America list, the Panama Canal remains one of the greatest feats in recent human history. The tumultuous story of how the Canal came to fruition makes for a great read and brings this place to life. Many of the greatest ocean going vessels passage through the canal which saves thousands and thousands of kilometres of travel for shipments of fruits, commodities and passengers. Did you know there was once an idea to build the canal in Nicaragua? Like I said, the history of the Panama Canal is an interesting read.

8 Great Reasons to Travel with Me in Nepal

This coming March I’ll be leading a small group tour through Nepal. The ‘Wild & Natural Nepal‘ tour has been carefully crafted, with help from friends at Original Trails and it is unlike any other organized tour out there! I’m really excited about this unique itinerary and the mix of experiences we’ve packed into a 15-day trip.

Head to Nepal with Red Hunt and Original Trails
Visit Nepal with Red Hunt & Original Trails

Wild & Natural Nepal details:

When: 15 Days from March 11 – 25, 2012.

Where: Starts and ends in Kathmandu, Nepal.

Cost: $2090USD per person.

How to Book & Full Itinerary: Head to the Original Trails website at:

http://www.originaltrails.com/trips/wild-and-natural-nepal/

Now for the ‘why’ part. In short, this is a guided tour that offers a different experience, to hidden parts of Nepal that you’d be unable to experience with a larger tour company. What makes it so special? How about:

  1. Bardia National Park. This is the wild side of Nepal. A remote national park in western Nepal, often dubbed an untouched wilderness. Unlike the ubiquitous Chitwan, few travellers visit this park as it requires a lengthy travel journey. The reward is an abundance of flora and fauna. More species have been spotted here than in Chitwan, including elephant, tiger, crocodile, barking deer, sloth bear, clouded leopard, hyena, rhino and, of course plenty of monkeys and birds.
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  3. Private Transport. This tour will be run with such a small group that we’ll take full advantage of our own, private and comfortable transportation. This means we’re not at the mercy of changing bus schedules and we have the freedom to stop at selected points of interest that are missed by many.
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  5. Connecting with Culture. A big part of this trip is taking time to enjoy the towns and cities we visit, in particular when we stay in Panauti. Here, we’ll become part of the town as we will live with and learn from the locals. Eat, drink and sleep the Nepalese lifestyle – undoubtedly the cultural highlight of the entire tour.
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  7. Paradise for Photographers. This is an adventure tour, with an abundance of photographic hotspots packed into two weeks. From the majestic Annapurnas to living with a local family and trekking around Bardia, photo opportunities are endless. We’ve slowed the pace of the tour down to allow for a more immersive experience at each place we stop, ideal for planning – and getting – those perfect shots. I’ll be there to help with some tips and advice along the way too.
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  9. Trekking in the Annapurna Foothills. Get your trekking poles ready, as we’ll be venturing into the foothills for a 5-day circuit trek. From farmlands and forests to mountain villages and towering peaks, the fresh air will invigorate and get us in touch with the natural side of Nepal.
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  11. Ample time in Kathmandu. With two full days at the start of the tour, you’ll have an easier time acclimitizng to the altitude in Kathmandu. Once you’re rested and full of energy, the Nepalese cuisine and shops will be ready for you to explore. From Durbar Square to the Garden of Dreams and Swayambhunath Temple, there are plenty of attractions to keep you busy in Nepal’s capital.
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  13. Ample time in Pokhara. Unlike many tours that hustle you out of the larger cities to save on costs, we’ve included plenty of free time in both Pokhara and Kathmandu. The eating, shopping and adventure options (white-water rafting anyone?) in Pokhara are impressive, as is Fewa Lake.
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  15. Sleep well, travel well. In line with the private transportation, this tour includes stays at some unique hotels, lodges and guesthouses. From a special lodge at Bardia to well-appointed hotels in the cities, you can expect a good night’s sleep, so we’re all rested and ready to explore the wonders of Nepal each and every day.

There you have it, a 15-day tour of Nepal, with plenty of time to experience the cities, parks and culture of this mystical country. Wild and Natural indeed. With all of the free time built into the itinerary, suggestions on best places to photograph and options for daily activities in Bardia or in the cities will be presented each day. Plus, we’ll enjoy the local expertise of Nepal guides during our excursions.

For a day-by-day breakdown and listing of all inclusions and highlights, visit the official Wild & Natural Nepal tour page on the Original Trails website.

If you have any questions about the tour, let me know…hope to see you there!

The Most Photographed Places on Earth

I have often wondered, what landmarks and attractions are the most photographed on Earth?

Have I seen any of them? If you count our bright, beautiful Sun on the list then sure, I think we’ve all photographed one of the world’s most popular sights as it rises and sets above the horizon.

Horseshoe Falls at Niagara Falls
Horseshoe Falls at Niagara Falls, Canada

But after that, what other places lay claim to ‘most photographed’ something or other? Ahhh, after scouring the Internet and some great tourism websites I have put together this comprehensive list.

Have any additions? What is the most photographed landmark in your country? Let me know and I`ll keep growing this list.

How many of these have you seen and photographed?

  • The Colosseum in Rome is often reported to be the most photographed landmark in Italy
  • The most photographed city in the world? New York
  • Not a single animal, but collectively known as the Big Five – lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo – are considered the most sought after wildlife in the world for photographers
  • India’s most photographed landmark? The Taj Mahal
  • In the Seychelles, the island of La Digue island claims to be the most photographed island in the world, although that seems difficult to believe
  • Santorini is the most photographed isle in Greece
  • Albuquerque’s International Balloon Fiesta claims to be the most photographed world event
  • South Africa’s Table Mountain is it’s most photographed landmark
  • The Little Mermaid statue in Copenhagen is the most photographed object in Denmark, and possibly the most photographed statue in the entire world
  • San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge lays claim to most photographed bridge and most photographed US landmark
  • Strange, but true – the most photographed toilets in the world come from New Zealand (The Kawakawa public toilets)
  • The most photographed wall in the world? The Great Wall of China
  • Picturesque, fairytale-like Neuschwanstein castle in Germany claims the king of the castle category for photography
  • Europe’s most photographed structure? The Eiffel Tower
  • Both the Evangeline Oak in Louisiana and the Lone Cyprus tree in California have claims as the most photographed trees in the world
  • Egypt’s Pyramids of Giza get the nod for most photographed in that country
  • Ayers Rock gets the nod for most photographed in Australia when it comes to sunsets
  • Most photographed road in the world? Abbey Road
  • Most photographed waterfall? Niagara Falls

Welcome to…the LARGEST stone in the WORLD!

Sometimes you just have to use bold or CAPS letters to make something stand out. Certain things, no matter how eloquent a writer you are…require help.

When it comes to the world’s biggest, largest, oldest, ugliest lists, usually you can really on the natural curiosity of people to visit your attraction (or read your story in this case).

But when your attraction is…a stone, well how exciting can that be?

Actually, the giant stone of Lebanon was fairly impressive. Beforehand I did question the validity of said stone, as I’ve seen giant buddhas in Sri Lanka and the giant Moai on Easter Island. This was, maybe larger than those, but maybe not. Plus, this is just a blocky shaped stone, woo hoo. The one advantage it had over other large stone-y things? You can climb on it!

So Lebanon has claim to the world’s largest stone. Is that enough to make you book a flight to Beirut and seek it out? Probably not. Luckily Lebanon does have many other worthwhile attractions. But, back to the stone.

A mighty stone it is. At well over 1000 tons in weight, it is a monster. The stone is sometimes called the ‘stone of the pregnant woman’ and was cut around 2000 years ago for use at a temple in Baalbeck, but it was never completed. Perhaps the workers realized they had no feasible way to carry or move this giant stone to the temple?

On its own, it is not much, but when you visit the nearby ancient ruins of Baalbeck, it helps bring the site to life and put things into perspective in terms of the dedication, effort and talent that went into building such an impressive . Many who’ve visited Roman ruins throughout Greece, Lebanon and surrounding countries hail Baalbeck as among the most impressive Roman ruins in the world, and with that, I have to agree. A pretty bold statement perhaps, but at least now you might be more inclined to also visit the largest stone in the world to find out for yourself.

Stone of the Pregnant Woman, Baalbeck, Lebanon
Stone of the Pregnant Woman - Baalbeck, Lebanon
Largest Stone in the World - Baalbeck, Lebanon
Largest Stone in the World - Baalbeck, Lebanon