Category Archives: Travel Articles

Articles, stories and advice on travel.

Travel Articles

Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle

Leave a comment

Travel triangles seem pretty popular. Maybe it’s a sneaky way to trap tourists into visiting a triage of destinations? Or maybe they’re all legit attractions in their own rite. Some, like the Bermuda triangle are surrounded with mystery and intrigue, some are natural wonders and others are culturally significant attractions. Whatever their role, the most impressive travel triangle I have enjoyed visiting is the cultural triangle in the interior of Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle

This travel triangle of ancient sites provides a glimpse into the history of Sri Lanka. All vastly different in appearance, and spread out across the country, the cultural sites of Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura make up the main attractions, however the Dambulla caves and Mihintale mountain are also worth visiting, as is the city of Kandy which serves as the southern border to this triangle.

Monk climbing stairs at Mahathupa, Anuradhapura
Anuradhapura's Great Thupa called Ruwanvalisaaya

Anuradhapura, is the most northern tip of the triangle, in central Sri Lanka. Once the capital of Sri Lanka, this ancient city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Mostly in ruins, some stupas remain in great condition and there are finely detailed carvings, stones and paintings around the area.

This is a major pilgrimage site for Buddhism as the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi tree is found here.  This sacred fig tree was planted nearly 2300 years ago, making it the oldest known planted tree in the world. This Bodhi tree is believed to have been planted from part of the tree in which the Buddha achieved enlightenment. When I visited there were literally hundreds of young monks visiting the site, most for the first time. It was fun to watch the young monks laugh and have fun at a place of such spiritual importance.

Famous Reclining Buddha of Sri Lanka
The Reclining Buddha, part of Gal Vihare at Polonnaruwa

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Polonnaruwa lies further east, in central Sri Lanka and is most famously known for it’s rock carvings and statues.

The rock temple of Gal Vihara is a collection of Buddha carvings, with the giant reclining Buddha being one of the most famous sites in all of Sri Lanka. There is a lot more to see here too, so staying a night or two in the modern, clean city of Polonnaruwa is well worth it. The ruins are nearby and a great way to get around to see the ancient sites is to rent a bicycle.

Sigiriya Rock also known as Lion Rock
Sigiriya Rock in Sri Lanka

Finally, Sigiriya, my favourite must-visit destination along the cultural triangle route. Lying further south in Central Sri Lanka, Sigiriya enjoys greener, more natural surroundings. As you approach the area, the landscape is mainly flat grasslands, until you see this one giant rock. Once a strategicaly important rock fortress, Sigiriya is also known as Lion Rock as the gateway to climb to the peak of the rock was once carved in the shape of a huge lion. Today, only the giant carved lion paws remain.

There are beautiful gardens and walking paths in the area, and as you climb Sigiriya, you’ll spot some of the best rock paintings in all of Sri Lanka. There is also a strangely interesting mirror wall. This rock wall was once polished so finely that you could see your reflection on it! Views from the top of Sigiriya are worth the effort of climbing the steep stairs bolted into the rock.

Other stops along the route. The Golden Buddha is massive! It is close to the entrance to the Dambulla caves. The Temple of the Tooth is in Kandy, and is said to house an actual tooth from Buddha. Worth visiting if you can handle the crowds and heat – you only get a fleeting, obstructed glimpse of the tooth at certain times of the day. Mihintale is a climb and a half. Lots of stairs up to the top of a mountain but well worth, it especially at sunset. You might just catch a monk or two hanging around on top of the mountain too.

The massive Jetavana Stupa
Jetavana Stupa at Anuradhapura
Rock carving at Polonnaruwa
Elephant rock carving at Polonnaruwa
One of the frescoes from the caves at Sigiriya
A well-preserved fresco at Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Golden Temple at Dambulla
Giant Golden Buddha near the Dambulla Caves
Temple of the Tooth in Sri Lanka
Temple of the Tooth, Kandy
Monk giving blessings at Mihintale mountain
A Monk giving blessings atop Aradhana Gala at Mihintale

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While Sri Lanka may be rich in cultural history, the country also boasts an abundance of wildlife, including leopards, bears and elephants. If you like hot, spicy food then you’ll also love Sri Lanka!

Travel Lists

Top Five Carnivorous Countries

1 Comment

Got a hankering for meat?

Some countries are known to be vegetarian friendly, while others prefer to pile on the meat. For my animal-eating friends I’ve compiled what I beleive are the top five carnivorous countries in the world.

Grab a knife and fork because no creature of land or sea is safe! (Ok wait, I don’t condone eating endangered animals.)

From four continents I present five countries in no particular order. Now excuse me while I go barbeque some Kangaroo.

Seafood Tower Feast
Seafood Feast on Ilha Grande, Brazil

Brazil

Sea creatures and land creatures have it tough in Brazil. Grab a cold beer and pair it with some fresh crab, lobster, mussels or calamari along the coast. It’s not too hard to find places that serve seafood platters, or towers like the one pictured here. Pure gluttony.

But, they’re not usually all-you-can-eat. For that, Brazil takes it to the next level with the churrascaria (or churrasqueira).

The Brazilian churrasqueira is a thing of beauty. Picture countless meats being roasted over a fire, then served at your table on sword-like skewers.

I’ve been to a number of churrasqueiras where unlimited meat is served Rodizio-style by waiters in white aprons trying to push you to your limits in terms of meat-eating. A big bonus is that you’re not usually limited to standard cuts of beef or pork, but you may get chicken livers and other less common meats.

Oh ya, there is usually a massive salad, seafood and dessert bar that accompanies the meat extravaganza too. Just in case you’re not full.

United States of America

The land of opportunity or the land of unlimited food buffets? From monstrosities like the double down at KFC (using chicken breasts as the bun) to unbelievable pizzas that include burgers as toppings, the US takes meat-eating to an extreme.

Alligator in Florida, Crayfish in Louisiana or Elk in Montana, what do you prefer? You don’t have to go extreme in the US, you just have to be hungry. Brazil has the churrasqueira as it’s meat party, while the US has the equally extravagant tail gate parties, a truly American experience of culture and cuisine.

Germany

Other European countries may arguably belong on this list, it is hard to argue with creations like Fois Gras in France. But you can’t eat fois gras every day. You can eat hearty German meals every day though!

From schnitzl to German sausages, smoked pork chops to traditional beef rouladen, the Germans know how to eat meat without messing around.

But wait, if their meat prowess isn’t enough, Germany is a world renowned beer country. Grab a bratwurst, raise your glass of beer and give a toast to the great meat country of Germany.

A Tenedor Libre Parrilla in Ushuaia
Meats cooking at a Parrilla in Ushuaia

Argentina

South America reigns supreme as the only continent with two countries on this list.

Not to be outdone by their neighbours in Brazil, the meat-lovers of Argentina have a rich history of farming and barbequing tasty animals.

Buenos Aires rules as the meat capital of South America, but even if you venture to the extreme south in Ushuaia, you won’t be dissapointed by the price, and selection, of meats available to eat.

Beef from Argentina is usually naturally raised and full of flavour as is the lamb. The best way to sample them? Seek out a parrilla or asado in any town in Argentina. Asado basically means barbeque and parrilla is a means of cooking the meat – often a large grill with all sorts of meats draped over it and cooked at the same time. Find a tenedor libre parrilla and you’ve been blessed with an all-you-can-eat meat feast in Argentina.

South Africa

Meat may be an extravagance to many countries in Africa, but the South Africans know how to throw a real barbeque.

Three meat treats are synonymous with South Africa – biltong, sosaties and boerewors. Biltong is a dried jerk-like meat, sosaties are meat skewers, while boerewors is a special type of sausage.

Now, in addition to these specialties, you can also get some fantastically different meats in South Africa such as Ostrich and Impala.

Perhaps the best thing about meat-eating in South Africa? The traditional braii. A very social event, it’s typically an outdoor BBQ of the bring-your-own meat variety where everyone celebrates and socailzies around the grill.


Travel Articles

Accidentally Anti-American

3 Comments

Every so often you have one of those travel moments that leaves you stunned and speechless. For me these moments have almost always been of the good variety, such as watching the sunrise from the top of Adam’s Peak in Sri Lanka or coming eye-to-eye with penguins in Antarctica. This story is about a time when I was accidentally Anti-American.

Sea Lions in the Galapagos Islands
Curious and Lazy Sea Lions on Chinese Hat Island

I was in the Galapagos Islands, and had been simply awed by the approachability of the wildlife on these islands. The sun had been getting the best of my Canadian winter skin too, so on this particular day I headed out on a island hike with my trusty sun hat to shield myself from those pesky UV rays. With the rest of my tour group wandering ahead I stopped to take some pictures of the playful sea lions and scenery on Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat) Island.

After a few minutes I hustled along to catch up with the others, when I crossed paths with two other people coming down the trail in the opposite direction. I said a quick ‘hello’ to the woman who passed first and was about to say ‘hi’ to the guy behind her, when he quipped ‘That’s really Anti-American!’.

Did I hear him right? Had I looked at his girlfriend / wife whoever she was, in a wrong way? All I did was say ‘hello’. I stopped and didn’t know what to say. As he passed by I turned around and he looked back – obviously seeing the stunned look on my face. He asked where I was from, I said near Toronto, Canada. That’s when he told me that my hat was anti-American, then he continued down the trail.

Relaxing at Sombrero Chino Island, Galapagos
Me, and my 'I Am Canadian' hat

My hat? What? Ahh, then it all sunk in. My sun hat was a freebie I had picked up one summer in a case of beer. A case of Molson Canadian beer. That was during the heydey of their ‘I AM CANADIAN’ beer slogan and TV commercials. So, naturally, on the front of my hat was emblazoned the ‘I AM CANADIAN’ logo. Apparently my pro-Canadianism was seen as anti-American to this fellow I had just met on the trail.

I kind of laughed afterwards, but wished I had been able to explain it to him, and even showed him some of the classic commercials associated with the beer campaign. When I caught up to the other travellers from my boat group I asked the Americans what they thought of my hat, and they thought it was great. Funny, I thought, how my hat had caused such concern to someone. It was a strange twist on the ongoing travel debate of Canadians vs. Americans. I have met many Americans on the road who at first meeting claim to be Canadian, but this scenario was a definite first.

Travel Articles

The Art of Tequila

2 Comments

Time for a little tequila lesson! Does the best Tequila come with a worm? Are quality Tequilas usually golden in colour? Does Tequila come from a cactus?

If you answered yes to any of those questions, then you are definitely not a Tequila connoisseur. Of all the famous liquors around the world, perhaps Tequila is the most under appreciated of them all. Forget about your Tequila worm myths and that guy named Jose something because the next time you have tequila, you want to go for the good stuff! From Tequila blanco and oro to the higher-end and oak-aged reposado, añejo, extra añejo and reserva varieties there is a lot more to this special type of mezcal than licking some salt and sucking some lime.

Reposado and Oro Tequila

Tequila has been an integral part of Mexican culture since the 16th century, with strictly controlled and regulated production requirements in place today. The Tequila Regulatory Council (El Consejo Regulador del Tequila) enforces the quality control in the industry and all members must adhere to a recognized labelling standard known as the Norma Oficial Mexicana.

In terms of production, to be called Tequila it must be made from the blue agave plant in specified states of Mexico (mainly Jalisco). One of more than 136 agave plant species in Mexico, the blue agave plant is what distinguishes Tequila from any other ‘agave’ liquors known as mezcal. Think of it the same way real Port can only be produced in Portugal, and Cognac must come from a certain region of France.

Once the blue agave plant matures from 8 years it can be harvested by cutting out the heart, or piña – which can weigh more than 100 pounds – and sending it off to the distillery to begin the fermentation process.  it takes less than 60 days for Tequila blanco, but the distilling, fermenting and ageing process can take many, many years for an añejo.

Tequila blanco or plata
All tequila is clear when the distillation process is completed. The blanco is bottled immediately after distillation and keeps most of the blue agave flavour and aroma. This unaged type of Tequila is the drink of choice for many locals in Mexico who consider it the only ‘real’ Tequila because of the natural, yet harsh flavour. Tequila blanco is the most common type in Mexico and is traditionally enjoyed in a special 2oz glass called a caballito (horse) or tequilito (pony). These special glasses are said to be shaped a bit like a bull’s horn, from which Tequila was consumed centuries ago.

Tequila oro or suave
Essentially blanco with added flavours and colours such as caramel to give it a golden colour, this type of Tequila still has a harsh ‘bite’ to it. Dubbed mixto Tequila when not 100% pure, this type of Tequila is mostly exported to the US, Canada and other tequila-loving countries. It is popular for using in Margaritas and known as the party Tequila thanks to some robust marketing efforts from certain brands. They may look the same as some higher-quality reposado Tequilas, but the taste is anything but. Plus, all those additives and colourants are what makes for nasty hangovers!

Tequila reposado
Usually with a slight golden or light brown colour, this isblanco that has been rested and aged in oak barrels for anywhere from 2 months to 1 year. The longer the aging, the darker the Tequila becomes. This type of Tequila has become more common in the past few years as people appreciate the mellow, smooth taste. Sometimes peppery or spicy and noticeably more complex than blanco Tequila. Again, a caballito is the most common and preferred method of consumption in Mexico.

Tequila añejo
Higher quality at higher prices!  This is ‘aged’ Tequila, which has been oak-aged anywhere from 1 to 3 years. Darker in colour this Tequila is known to have a smooth taste with woody, spicy or even smoky characteristics. The taste and colour of such Tequila depends on how long it has been aged, and what type of barrels have been used. White oak, French oak, Bourbon, Sherry and Redwood are most commonly used to age both reposado and añejo Tequilas.

Tequila extra añejo
This classification was only introduced in 2006. Prior to that añejo Tequila was aged for up to 5 years. Starting in 2006 though, Tequila aged for more than 3 years is labelled as extra añejo, which means extra aged. When you reach these heights of Tequila quality and aging, many people prefer to enjoy sipping their Tequila in brandy or cognac glasses to fully enjoy the aroma and complex tastes. To down such a Tequila as shots would not only be offensive to the Tequila producer, but damaging to your wallet too!

Tequila reserva
Not an official type of Tequila, but like a fine wine, these are the private reserves and the best of the best as chosen by the producer. Perhaps they’ve been aged in special barrels or come from only selected plants – whatever the criteria used, these are sometimes only available locally or in very limited quantities. They may be aged as long as 10 years, usually falling into the extra añejo Tequila category. No matter what type, they are normally the most expensive Tequila you can find and always 100% agave.

To sum it up – the best Tequila is unflavoured and 100% pure, called 100% agave – without any mixers, additives or colourants added. To be labelled as 100% agave, the Tequila must be distilled in Mexico and adhere to the regulations of the Tequila Regulatory Council of Mexico.

Cheaper types of Tequila that are not indicated as 100% agave are only required to be 51% Tequila, with the other 49% as cane sugars and additives. These are sometimes called mixto Tequilas. While most Tequila is bottled in Mexico, the 2006 Tequila Trade Agreement with the US allows for approved bottlers in the USA to bottle Tequila as well. If you want to really taste Tequila, skip the cheap stuff and grab a bottle of 100% agave añejo!

Travel Articles, Travel Lists

Everglades Series: Five surprising things about Everglades NP

5 Comments

This is the third, and final, post in my Everglades National Park series. The first post was about Shark Valley and the second post was on the Anhinga Trail.

I always knew that the Everglades was huge, but never really had a full understanding of what it ‘was’ or how unique it was.  So here are some surprises I uncovered and learned from park authorities, while visiting this World Heritage Site.

1 – The Everglades is dry for part of the year

Dry Everglades - River of Grass
Dry Everglades - River of Grass

Most people have visions of a swampy, wet mosquito-filled landscape when they think of the Everglades. While the Everglades is not a swamp, that wet, mosquito-laced vision is true

for part of the year. The Everglades are actually a cracked earth, dry grassland for a few months of the year. Visiting  from about December to April gives you the best chance to experience the Everglades in a drier state. The benefits of this are that the Alligators congregate in smaller water holes and can be seen easier, plus there will be NO mosquitoes!

2 – Borrow Pits

Virtually everything in Everglades National Park is nautral. They don’t interfere with the course of nature. One of the biggest threats to the Everglades ecosystem is introduced species. Not just animals such as burmese pythons, but plants as well. Introduced plant species choke out the natural vegetation and are a constant battle for park officials. Which brings me to borrow pits.

When building the roadways and paved paths in the park, officials were weary of bringing materials from outside of the park because of the likely introduction of seeds and spores from foreign plants. To avoid that risk, they excavated a number of deep pits from within the park and used the rocks and materials from these ‘borrow pits’ to create the pathways. This is most evident at Shark Valley. Here, the borrow pits are about 20 feet deep and are the only feature of the area that does not dry up in the dry season. These few sources of year-round water are a haven for wildlife.

Alligator Closeup
Smiling Alligator Closeup

3 – Only place in the world to see Alligators and American Crocodiles

The endangered american crocodile can be found here in small numbers. It prefers areas with sandy beaches for laying eggs, so the over development of coastal areas in south Florida have caused it’s numbers to steadily decline. If you’re really lucky you may catch a glimpse of a crocodile while venturing into the Everglades by boat, kayak or canoe. The crocodiles are salt-water animals so they stick along the coast, whereas the alligators are freshwater animals and are more common inland.

4 – Oil is here

The Shark Valley area of the Everglades was originally land surveyed for drilling oil by the Humble Oil Company. Back in 1946 they did find oil here, but thankfully the quality of the oil and technological capabilities at the time didn’t make extraction a viable option. Giving up on the rough landscape and low quality oil, Humble Oil Company (now called Exxon) gave the land to the government, and this area became part of Everglades National Park.

Who knows what could have happened here if the oil was found today?

5 – The Everglades is a River

Huh? What? At more than 1.5 million acres in size, this is a huge river – 50 miles wide!

It may not look like it, but the Everglades is in constant motion. Water from further north in Florida at Lake Okeechobee trickles south at a very gradual rate as it goes through the Everglades. Nicknamed a ‘river of grass’ Everglades National Park only represents about 25% of what the entire Everglades once was. Water diversion and urban development have altered the natural course of flow to the Everglades, destroying parts of it in recent decades. Thankfully construction efforts are underway along parts of the Tamiani Highway and other areas of south Florida to ensure water flow to the park, and it’s plants and animals, will continue in the future.

Do you have any other interesting Everglades facts? Were you surprised that there are virtually no mosquitoes here for parts of the year? Share your Everglades tips by posting a comment below.