Category Archives: Travel Articles

Articles, stories and advice on travel.

Where Starbucks Organic Galapagos Coffee Comes From

I rarely drink coffee. It’s something I’ll have if it is included for free, like when I’m flying on a plane or a hotel includes a free breakfast, or a friend buys me one. But I’ve never bought myself a coffee. Not even once, and I don’t have any coffee in my house.

To most people that seems crazy. But to me, it’s a habit, or should I say it’s an expense, I don’t need.

Still, I like the smell of coffee and am fascinated by how addicted so many people are. On my last trip to the Galapagos Islands, I decided it was worth checking out the Hacienda El Cafetal coffee farm on San Cristobal Island.

El Cafetal Galapagos
El Cafetal coffee farm in the Galapagos

 

When I was in the Galapagos back in 2012, I was enjoying a fruit smoothie (they call them batidos) at The Mockingbird Cafe in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Nicholas, the stout and personable guy whose family runs the joint, is the coffee man. This is “the” place to get a great coffee.

Shortly after that batido, I walked down the road and in an open courtyard, drying on the hot pavement in the sun were coffee beans. These beans had been brought down from the farm in the highlands to dry out. There were tons of beans, covering the entire parking lot sized courtyard. It seemed that it was harvesting time, as I was there in November.

Coffee bean dryer
A coffee bean dryer at El Cafetal

 

On this last visit to the Galapagos, I was there after harvest time had occurred, so it was quiet on the coffee farm. The beans had been picked and only a few leftovers could be found on the coffee plants as we hiked around the dense, deep vegetation of the farm.

It was cool seeing all of the equipment that was used to bring those beans from their home in the Galapagos highlands. There were tumblers, sorters and all sorts of machines that obviously had an important role in ensuring your organic Starbucks Galapagos coffee was the best possible thing you could taste.

Coffee bean tumbler
Some kind of coffee bean tumbler

 

Now I will admit I’ve bought some of this Galapagos coffee. Not at Starbucks, but locally on San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos. I bought it not for myself, but for family and friends. My friends who do live in the Galapagos swear by the coffee that Nicholas provides. They say it is the best in the islands, and I don’t doubt them. He sure takes pride in it and deserves the success. Maybe I should buy a bag of the Galapagos coffee from Starbucks and bring it back to him the next time I am in the Galapagos Islands? I wonder what he’d think of their finished packaging and pricing?

Galapagos coffee beans
A few leftover coffee beans, after the Galapagos harvest

 

Anyhow, I think it is always smart to know where your food comes from, so now you know where your Starbucks Galapagos coffee comes from!

Coffee farm scenery
The coffee farm is located in the lush highlands of San Cristobal Island

 

Coffee farm equipment
More coffee bean sorting equipment in the Galapagos Islands

 

5 Great Wildlife Parks in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a country blessed with a huge diversity of wildlife species, all packed into a relatively small country.

Some of the animals that lure people to Africa, such as elephants and leopards, are found in abundance in Sri Lanka, and it is known as one of the top birding places in the world.

I spent about a month travelling around Sri Lanka, enjoying some fantastic (spicy!) food, visiting impressive temples and hiking through forests, but what attracted me most to this country was its National Parks and wildlife watching opportunities.

Of all of the places I visited, here are the top 5 parks in Sri Lanka for watching wildlife:

A Millipede at Sinharaja
A Millipede in the Sinharaja Rainforest

5 – Sinharaja Forest Reserve

It’s a rough road to get into parts of the Sinharaja Rainforest Reserve, where birders try to seek out numerous hard to spot and endemic species. The rough terrain and different climate mean there are plenty of streams and lush vegetation here. Reptiles and amphibians, deer and mongoose – a wide variety of animals to be spotted. Turtles, monkeys, and all sorts of night critters and interesting bugs are also found here.

Because of the ample rains and humidity here, many buildings have open beam roofs to allow for ventilation. For me, this meant that a little palm squirrel was running around my room one night, trying to get into all of my bags of wet clothes and camera equipment!

Horton Plains
The World’s End at Horton Plains, a hike that often delivers great wildlife encounters

 

4 – Horton Plains National Park

Out here on the plains, you’ll likely see some different species than in other parks. The biggest attraction is great chances of spotting herds of the large sambar deer. Unlike the other major parks that are for vehicle safaris only, you’re able to walk and hike a great selection of trails here. This is a misty, cloud forest and grasslands climate, with waterfalls and rolling hills making for some great photography and wildlife possibilities. A visit to what is called the “World’s End”, a very wide and impressive canyon, is well worth the trek.

Spotted Deer at Uda Walawe
A Spotted Deer at Uda Walawe National Park

 

3- Uda Walawe National Park

Created for wildlife after the construction of a nearby reservoir, the highlight here for some day-trip visitors is watching orphaned elephants get fed at the Udawalawe Elephant Transit Home, where you can see baby elephants sucking back gallons of milk. But the park itself provides a much more natural wildlife experience. More than 250 wild elephants are found here, and crocodiles, peacocks, monkeys, lizards, wild boar and various small wild cats call the park home as well. Since many “tourists” only stop for the show that is the elephant orphanage, you’ll be pleasantly surprised about how peaceful your safari experience can be in the park.

Asian Elephant
An Impressive Asian Elephant in Bundala National Park

 

2 – Bundala National Park

Expect some animal overload when visiting Bundala, especially if you visit during early morning hours when troops of monkeys are bounding about, elephants are out for a stroll and birds and crocodiles can be found lounging around the lakes and waterways. One of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO Biosphere Reserves, Bundala is regarded as an important birding area with everything from storks to flamingoes stopping in here during migration routes.

Spend enough time here and creatures such as pangolins, porcupines and jackals may be spotted. Elephants, monkeys, water birds, crocodiles, snakes and tortoises and turtles are more common.

Sloth Bears in Sri Lanka
Two Sloth Bears spotted in Yala (Ruhunu) National Park

 

1 – Yala National Park

This part of Ruhunu National Park is renowned for it’s wildlife spotting, and it did not disappoint on the numerous safaris I took during morning and evening game viewing drives. A stunning amount of elephants, close encounters with sloth bears (including babies) and leopard spotting were the biggest highlights. But plenty of monkey species, land monitors, peacocks, wild boar and other creatures kept the camera clicking away almost non-stop. A real treasure of a park that packs in enough variety and “big game” wildlife to match the best parks in any other country.

Wild boar, common land monitors, and two cobra spottings were some of the other highlights of my trips into this park, which definitely warrants multiple visits if you have the time. The only downside to Yala, is that its reputation results in a sometimes congested wildlife viewing experience, where a line of Jeeps will all crowd together to give tourists a view of a special animal. It happens all over Africa as well, and is a situation that is hard to avoid.

There are many other great places for wildlife viewing in Sri Lanka, but these were my highlights! If you had a great wildlife encounter at a park in Sri Lanka, let me know…I hope to return one day and visit the country further.

5 Things you Didn’t Know about the Galapagos Islands

After spending many months in the Galapagos Islands during my various visits there, I’ve learned quite a few travellers have strange expectations when it comes to visiting the Galapagos. Even people who have visited the islands often get things wrong. So, here are 5 things most people don’t know about the remote Galapagos Islands off the coast of Ecuador.

1 – 40,000 People Live in the Galapagos

Galapaguenos playing Soccer
A local soccer match on San Cristobal Island in the Galapagos

 

It’s not all about the animals, as four islands support towns, with populations from 140 to more than 20,000. Spending time in the towns, especially on Isabela Island and San Cristobal Island, is a great way to get the full travel experience of the islands, instead of just ticking off animals from a guide book. Because of the higher standard of living in the Galapagos compared to mainland Ecuador, there are strict immigration controls in the islands for both visitors and workers.

2 – Galapagos Travel Guide Books are Usually Wrong

The park rules change so fast in the Galapagos that all printed guide books are out of date, even the famous Lonely Planet. Seek out current online sources for your travel information if you’re trying to visit independently, as you’ll be disappointed with the information in most guide books. I’ve seen dozens of people show up, believing their guide book is right, only to find out their Galapagos travel plans are no longer possible, or are now illegal. If you use your guide book for basics such as finding some hotels or restaurants, you should be able to find some still up-to-date information. But when it comes to visiting tourist sites that require a Naturalist Guide, either by land, or by boat, check with the locals or an actual tour company first.

3 – There are no Giant Turtles in the Galapagos

Galapagos Giant Tortoise
A giant tortoise (not turtle) on Floreana Island in the Galapagos

 

Giant turtles do not exist. Yes, there are some very big turtles. Green sea turtles that swim in the water in the Galapagos and lay their eggs on beaches can weigh hundreds of pounds. But these are green sea turtles, not a giant turtle species. The massive land animals that people come to see are giant tortoises, not turtles. Very different animals. Need to know how to tell the difference?  In short – tortoises stay on land, turtles prefer the water.

4 – Charles Darwin only spent 5 Weeks in the Galapagos

Three years after Ecuador claimed the islands from Spain, Charles Darwin arrived and spent five weeks on the islands in 1835 as part of the HMS Beagle voyage captained by Robert FitzRoy. Darwin actually only visited four of the islands, and while he made many important observations at the time, it wasn’t until he arrived home in England much later on that he studied the finches and worked out his theory of evolution through natural selection – leading to his published work The Origin of Species. What is the most impressive thing you’ve accomplished after a 5-week visit somewhere?

5 – Goats have Wreaked Havoc in the Galapagos Islands

In recent decades, studies proved that feral goats were straining the local giant tortoise populations. These goats first arrived when early settlers and previous whalers and sealers visited the islands. Spreading into the highlands, their numbers increased to dangerous levels, where tortoises would starve because they couldn’t compete with the more aggressive goats, who would eat everything in their path. Eradication programs have eliminated more than 270,000+ goats in recent decades! About half of those are from Isabela Island.

Hiking Along the Lycian Way to Oludeniz Blue Lagoon

Turkey has a surprisingly large collection of great hiking trails, something I wasn’t really aware ahead of time and left me wanting to explore more after I left. One of the most rewarding hikes I enjoyed was along the Lycian Way, ending at a great little town and beautiful beach.

Kayakoy in the Morning
Kayakoy in the Morning, starting the hike

 

Most people visit the Turkish ghost village of Kayakoy via various hiking trails that connect nearby villages to the coast. It is actually near part of the impressive Lycian Way trail route, which stretches for more than 500km and starts at nearby Oludeniz. When I visited this part of Turkey it was a good hike up and over the hills from Kayakoy to meet up with the Lycian Way trail and travel onwards to the beaches at Fethiye and Oludeniz blue lagoon.

Sheep in Kayakoy
Sheep in Kayakoy Ghost Town

 

Kayakoy Ghost Town
Kayakoy Ghost Town, restored building

 

Along the trail, abandoned buildings from the once impressive town greeted us, with churches and homes empty and open along the hillsides. A few houses are still used today, as they’ve been restored as a museum of sorts, but mostly they are all abandoned.

More than 2000 people lived here once, but the Greco-Roman War changed things. The houses and people are of Greek background, so the mandatory population exchange of 1923 meant they all had to leave, an interesting time in recent history!

Kayakoy Trail Signs
Kayakoy Trail Signpost to Oludeniz Blue Lagoon

 

Onwards from the town of Kayakoy, you get into some great tree-lined paths and coastal views. It’s a great part of the Mediterranean. Trails here head north and south and inland, but the most popular route is to head to the beach. As you approach the first area you’ll see is the beautiful Oludeniz blue lagoon, which is a national nature reserve. Beyond that is the main Oludeniz beach.

View from the Lycian Way trail
View from the Lycian Way trail, going to Oludeniz

 

Hiking Trail - Lycian Way
Hiking Trail – The Lycian Way in Turkey

 

The high-flying para gliders and boisterous beach bars in this area of the Fethiye district were quite the contrast to this quiet, crumbling town, but it was nice to have some cold beers afterwards, as summer gets pretty hot and humid along this coastal area of Turkey!

The hike itself took about 2 hours total, including stops in the ghost town and photo stops along the way. Some decent inclines happen at the start, but once you’re up in the hills, it’s a mostly flat and then downhill hike into the coastal area of Oludeniz.

Oludeniz Blue Lagoon
Oludeniz Blue Lagoon, a protected national reserve in Turkey

 

Oludeniz Beach, Turkey
Oludeniz Beach in Turkey

Were ATVs created for Rainy Days?

Puddles of mud aren’t normally something you look forward to encountering when driving, walking, hiking or biking around outdoors.

But that all changes when you’re on an ATV! The bigger the puddle, the messier the adventure and more thrilling the ride. Perhaps it was with a bit of luck that on my last ATV adventure a torrential downpour occurred just after getting suited up. I was prepared though, with a mighty fine looking trenchcoat keeping me dry on my ride.

Sweet Honda ATV's
The sweet ATV’s we rode up near Parry Sound with Bear Claw Tours

 

The guys at Bear Claw Tours were pretty awesome, outfitting us with all the right gear to stay warm and relatively dry. It was also pretty sweet that they had a fleet of brand new Honda ATVs. No falling apart clunkers here, these were slick riding machines that were a real pleasure to drive.

The rain that accompanied us for most of the 1/2 day adventure was surprisingly accommodating too, as when we had a little snack break overlooking a nearby lake, it stopped to let us enjoy the view.

ATV Lunch Break
Enjoying an ATV lunch break by a lake

 

Riding along the trails, bouncing over rocks and scrambling around trees was great fun. But the best parts were 1) the puddles and 2) letting loose and going all out on the flat trail, just to see how fast we could go!

Not knowing what lurked beneath the murky water, some puddles were smooth and easy riding, while others had us lifting our legs up, so not to get flooded, while bouncing over some unforeseen submerged rocks. It was fun riding and I managed to avoid getting stuck in any mud holes! I was happy I had some big, bad rubber boots though.

Ready to get dirty!
Ready to get dirty on the trails with my rubber boots!

 

The slippery, muddy and wet rock conditions did challenge me a few times. I underestimated just how much an ATV will “slide” on the mud when you’re doing sharp turns. They do turn sharp, but I still ended up having to do a couple of 3-point turns to get myself around the steep, sharp corners on the muddy trail.

An added bonus of the rainy day ATV ride? Less mosquitos! The few times when we’d stop and it wasn’t raining, the little buggers would descend on us in the forest. But when it was drizzling (or pouring), it kept them away, allowing us to enjoy the ride, scenery and adventure that much more.

ATV fun in the rain
Zoom zoom…let’s go, ATV fun in the rain

 

Now, I may be odd in that I don’t mind walking in the rain and getting soaking wet. I’m not one to duck for cover at the first sign of bad weather. But when it comes to being outdoors in the rain, most sports and activities just aren’t as much fun. I can’t really think of anything else that embraces the “let it rain” attitude better than ATVing. Sometimes it is just too fun to get dirty and splash around, so next time you’re wondering what to do on a rainy day – think about how you can get dirty, instead of staying dry – I guarantee you’ll have a blast if you head out on an ATV.

Editorial note: A big thanks go out to Bear Claw Tours in Sequin, Ontario and Explorer’s Edge who had me racing through the woods on a special “Quintessentially Canadian” tour.