Category Archives: Wildlife and Nature

Articles on flora and fauna.

Wildlife and Nature

Springtime Moose in Algonquin Park

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Algonquin Park is one of those special, quintessential Canadian experiences. Hiking, camping, canoeing and Moose-spotting are favourite Canadian past times in this part of Ontario, and when is the best time of year to spot Moose? Spring time!

I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Algonquin Park more times than I can remember, including guiding groups of tourists around parts of the park. I’ve always had a soft spot for this park because of it’s impressive wildlife watching opportunities, with Moose being the #1 desired animal for me, and pretty much everyone else.

Algonquin Park Moose - Springtime
Algonquin Park Moose – Springtime

 

The most Moose I’ve seen in one day was 13 (in Springtime of course), but despite there being so many of these odd looking creatures in the park, most of my summer visits have resulted in seeing no Moose. How come? Well, they’re just so good at camouflage!

Take a look at this photo. This is the same Moose that was pictured above. But after slipping only a few feet into the bush, all you can see is a silhouette. The springtime vegetation was just starting to fill in during this trip, so if this Moose was standing there in summer, he’d be totally hidden by leaves and branches. If you’re driving or walking by, you probably won’t notice this shadowy figure. Especially after he takes a few more steps deeper into the forest and virtually cloaks himself in darkness.

Algonquin Park Moose - Camouflaged
Algonquin Park Moose – Camouflaged

 

That is the trick with these giants of the forest, they’re just so hard to spot sometimes! While spring is the best season to spot them – less vegetation, and they like to be near roadways, getting salty nutrients after a long winter – any season is a good time to go looking for Moose.

In summer, thankfully they love eating water lilies so spotting a Moose while canoeing down a lake is always a possibility in Algonquin. The same goes for autumn, but by then you have the added bonus of leaves changing colours and the male Moose will be sporting impressive, large antlers. In winter, finding animals like Moose in the park is made more fun by being able to see their tracks in the snow.

Tall Moose in Algonquin Park
Moose in Algonquin Park – they are the tallest members of the deer family

 

Now, in general, the Moose tend to like grazing open waterhole and grassy areas, like this guy was. But not during the heat of the day in summer. They like to take shelter in the shade then, so it’s always best to look for Moose in the early morning and late evening hours, after sunrise and before sunset.

This particular Moose was one of 9 I saw on a day trip to go canoeing in Algonquin Park with Algonquin Outfitters, a trip organized by Explorer’s Edge. Some people I was with said they saw 14 or so Moose that day, but my eyes couldn’t spot them all!

Hello Mr. Moose
This Moose could use a nice, new coat of summer fur…

 

A lot of people laugh at the weirdness of these creatures. They look awkward, being so tall, and have odd faces. This guy also happens to be one of my favourite Moose I’ve seen in all my visits to Algonquin. His antlers are starting to grow, with a smooth, furry “velvet” on them, but his fur is still matty and ugly-looking from the winter.

Have you ever seen a Moose in the wild? What do you think of these Moose pictures? Is he cute? Ugly? Weird-looking?

Editorial note: While I am always looking for my next great outdoor adventure, this particular experience was compliments of the great people at Explorer’s Edge, who sent me on a 3-day “Quintessentially Canadian” tour in Ontario as part of the TBEX Toronto conference.

Wildlife and Nature

Hiking with Head Hunters in Borneo

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Cruising down the river in a longboat, I couldn’t help but wonder if some of the friendly Borneo people at the nearby villages might still have inklings of being Head Hunters and that there was a chance I could be in danger.

Longboats at Limbang
Our longboat ride from Limbang to the Head Hunters Trail in Borneo

 

That thinking was pretty delusional, likely brought on by a combination of extremely hot, humid weather, and me drinking cheap beers in the longboat, which I had picked up in Labuan. It did make for a more entertaining couple of hours along the river though, trying to imagine what it was like coming down this river knowing that your head could be put on a stick. I often find myself imaging what first explorers to places like Borneo went through, usually with a bit of envy that their adventures were surely more exciting than mine.

In reality, the Head Hunters Trail is just another walk in the park. A park that is a dense, muggy rainforest. With lots of leeches and near 100% humidity that kills cameras. The humidity here was so intense that my camera lenses fogged up almost instantly and even the outer protective casing of one of my lenses began to peel off. There may not be any Head Hunters here any more, but it is still an evil place for the digital traveller.

Sarawak Headhunters Trail
Near the start of the Headhunters Trail in Sarawak, Borneo

 

The hike itself is an 11km hike from Kuala Terikan to Camp 5 in the Borneo jungle and it’s all through lush green forest, with dripping wet branches and muddy pools of water everywhere – and that’s not even during the rainy season! This is leech-check territory, so keep all your pant, waist, neck and arm seams tightly closed off or else the little blood-suckers will get you!

Hiking in Borneo
Hiking along, after a leech check! Camera foggy from 100% humidity.

 

I learned here that it’s often best to be the first or second person hiking along a path where leeches may exist. It’s a case of the first person waking up the leech as they walk by and the second person aggravating (or exciting) the leech. The third person may or may not get lucky and pass by before the leech is ready to grab on…but the people after that will be facing a pathway of excited, wiggling leeches thirsty for blood.

Headhunters Trail Sign
More like the humid, leech-infested trail…

 

I did indeed have some leeches on this longboat ride and 11km hike, but they were all caught by my hiking buddies during leech checks. So none of them got past my clothing barriers, bug spray and heightened sensory awareness. I did laugh when I took a refreshing cold shower later on and saw a massively, blood-filled leech in there. It seemed that someone else had an unpleasant surprise!

So…back to the Head Hunter Trail…

If you’re lucky you will spot some wildlife along the hike, such as wild boar or porcupines or monkeys. More than likely you’ll hear a lot of birds and rustling of animals in the forest, but won’t see that much. The hike is done over average terrain, nothing too intense, except that the weather zaps your energy pretty quickly, especially as you’ll be carrying your backpack on this little trek. (Another reason why I was drinking those beers early in the day…to lighten the load!)

Camp 5 - Headhunters Trail
Camp 5 along the Headhunters Trail in Borneo

 

At the end of the 11km hike, you emerge from the forest and come to a picturesque setting on the edge of the limestone cliffs. A river presents itself for swimming and a suspension bridge symbolizes the end of the trail (or start if you’re going in reverse). Here is Camp 5, and after a few hours of getting dirty and sweaty in the jungle, a cold beer and dormitory bed seem like luxury – a decent reward for surviving the Head Hunters Trail.

Camp 5 in the rain
Raining at Camp 5, don’t expect your clothes to dry here!

 

Wildlife and Nature

Celebrating Endangered Species Day

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I feel a bit conflicted asking people to celebrate Endangered Species Day, which is today (May 17th).

Why is it important to celebrate such a day? Well, there is good news. We are re-introducing animals (and plants!) to their natural habitats and returning small pockets of the world back to how they used to be, the Black-footed Ferret in Grasslands National Park, Canada is one such species. We are also conserving some vast parts of the planet where animals can still live their entire lives without being disturbed by humans, or even, in some cases, without any human contact at all.

Pronghorn Antelopes
Pronghorn Antelopes – North America’s Fastest Land Animals. Habitat fragmentation may push them towards being endangered (Current IUCN status = Least Concern)

 

On the other side, re-introduction and saving species from extinction and endangerment shouldn’t be such a big issue. The main reason for most species being endangered is our own past actions. We’ve taken away their habitats, hunted them down to near extinction or poisoned their food supply and habitat to such extents that they can barely survive.

Those are not actions to celebrate and be happy about.

List’s of endangered species read like a celebrity awards show for animals. We’ve got tigers, lions and bears. Whales, dolphins and turtles. Monkeys, gorillas and chimps. Many of them are the coolest of the cool when it comes to animals we carry around in plush form as kids or desire to see on TV, in the Zoo or – if lucky – in the wild.

If you’re curious to see what species are endangered, view this World Wildlife Fund (WWF) list of species, by endangered status.

The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources (IUCN) produces a “Red List” of plant and animal species that are under threat, endangered, extinct or somewhere in between. Today there are 10,000+ species either critically endangered or endangered, and another 10,000+ listed as vulnerable. Discover more about the IUCN endangered species.

Blue Whale
The Blue Whale is the largest animal on our planet. Equivalent to 22 Asian Elephants. Current status = endangered.

 

There are many species that are now classed as extinct in the wild. Meaning they only exist in places like private conservation areas, zoos or scientific facilities. I don’t deny that Zoo’s play an important role in the world we live in now, yet it is marginally better that many people will only ever have the pleasure of seeing some of the world’s most endangered animals in zoos or aquariums. As exciting as it may be to see an endangered Orangutan or Bengal Tiger in  Zoo, it’s not where they belong. But, it does inspire youngsters to possibly get involved in conservation and help protect these species, and others, in the future.

Wildlife is one of the main reasons I travel and whether it be Africa, Asia or South America, and I’m always happy to support the efforts of National Park systems and conservation programs. Education is the key element that can lead to successful programs in getting species off of the endangered list. We’ll never be able to save every animal out there, as quite simply, we’ve taken over too much land on the planet for our personal use. But that doesn’t mean things have to get worse instead of better, right?

Marine Iguana
The marine iguana is only found in the Galapagos Islands. Current status = vulnerable.

 

Here are a few more species I’ve had the pleasure of photographing in the wild that are endangered or, on their way to becoming endangered. Hopefully your travels take you to places where conservation and appreciation of nature will let you see some of the world’s great creatures in their natural habitats.

Sri Lankan Elephant
The Sri Lankan elephant is one of many elephant species listed as endangered.

 

Wildlife Photo - Gentoo Penguin
Gentoo Penguins are currently listed as a near threatened species.

 

A Lioness in Ngorongoro Crater
The African Lion is listed as a vulnerable species

 

Wildlife and Nature

The Caves of Gunung Mulu

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The World Heritage Area of Gunung Mulu in Malaysian Borneo is a rich rain forest that is short in comfort – save for the Royal Mulu Resort – but big on creatures and caves.

The caves at Mulu National Park bring travellers from around the world, most notably for the famous bat exodus from Deer Cave.

Viewing Area near Deer Cave
The viewing area to watch the bat exodus from Deer Cave in Borneo

 

When I was spending time in Mulu I had the pleasure of checking out Deer Dave, along with Langs, Clearwater and Cave of the Winds caves. Each one had it’s own appeal and unique characteristics. But first, my favourite…as with most people who visit, was Deer Cave.

Deer Cave

This is a massive cave that boasts the largest cave entrance in the world! The walk into the cave is along a mountainside pathway, and you sort of come around a corner to the cave entrance, not getting to appreciate it’s full size until you’re inside it, looking back out. Cavernous is an appropriate word for Deer Cave.

Deer Cave
Streams of water dripping down inside Deer Cave

 

The trail here is fun to walk along and spot odd formations from the carved out limestone cave, which once had a powerful river running through it. Your walk will take you to some cool spots in the cave like the Garden of Eden Pools.

It is also home to millions of bats that live high up above in the interior ceiling of the cave. There are also a ton of ugly critter like beetles and spiders, but you don’t really see them unless you shine your light into the darkness away from the footpaths. There is a viewing platform area way back down below that provides a panoramic view of the limestone mountain and cave entrance. People gather there around dusk to watch the millions of bats fly out of the cave.

Staring into the light
Staring into the light (this is at Cave of the Winds)

 

Langs Cave

A much smaller cave, Langs Cave has the most impressive entrance way. It’s like a huge mouth opened up and put this cave on display  As with Deer Cave and any other caves you visit in Mulu, don’t forget to bring a headlamp / torch with you as it can get dark in some areas inside the cave.

Langs Cave
Formations inside Langs Cave, Borneo

 

Lots of stalactites and stalagmites are found in this cave, which isn’t far from the larger Deer Cave. As with all of the caves you’re allowed to explore, there is a smooth pathway of boardwalks, staircases and platforms built inside the cave to keep you from touching (destroying) the sometimes fragile environment.

Inside Langs Cave
Headlamp required – checking out Langs Cave

 

Cave of the Winds

Located in a different, further away part of the park, getting to Cave of the Winds and Clearwater Cave is a fun hike. It’s not very strenuous, and you might spot butterflies, squirrels and other creatures along the 3.8km trail. Alternatively, you can take a longboat from the park headquarters early in the morning…but I’d suggest taking the hike at your own pace.

Mulu Hiking Path
Hiking trail to Cave of the Winds

 

At Cave of the Winds, you experience just that  – a cool, windy cave. But also there are skylights high above the cave floor, allowing light to pierce through in sort of artistic fashion. When you’re not staring up in this cave, being impressed by it’s size, there are huge columns of calcite around in an area known as the King’s Chamber. Pretty cool stuff when you realize just how long it takes to create these structures!

Kings Chamber
Kings Chamber inside Cave of the Winds

 

Clearwater Cave

With plenty of stalactites ‘dripping’ down from the edge of the mountain along the entrance of this cave, you can get some photos in better light here. I made the mistake of forgetting my tripod when exploring the caves, so almost all of my interior photos turned out blurry and unusable!

Clearwater Cave is your place to relax, after exploring it’s network of paths. There is a river here that goes on for more than 170km underneath these mountains  winding through various caves! It exists the cave nearby and you can go for a picnic and swim here – something you’ll cherish after spending a few hours in the sweltering heat and humidity of Borneo!

Clearwater Cave
Some cool formations at Clearwater Cave

 

Each cave at Mulu showcases different types of structures or features so it really is worth spending a whole day exploring them. If you have extra time you can delve even deeper into the caves by doing some adventure caving at Turtle Cave or Lagang Cave.

Wildlife and Nature

An Ontario Camping Confession

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It may seem odd, but for many people the excitement for summer camping in Ontario starts around Christmas time.

I’m not talking about getting a tent or Ontario Parks gift card as a present (although both would be cool), I’m talking about booking a campsite for your first camping trip of the year.

A well-treed Camp Site
A Well-Treed, Large Camp Site at Wakami Lake

 

May 2-4 long weekend is the unofficial start to summer camping season and in Ontario you can book a campsite up to 5 months ahead of time. This means when you’re enjoying a Christmas dinner, you can be thinking about where to camp in May. The next long weekend in Ontario is Canada Day and shortly after that is my birthday, so early July is my favourite time for camping in Ontario. Long daylight hours lure me further north in need of a nature fix. Sometimes it’s a park many have never heard of, like Esker Lakes Provincial Park, while other times it is a popular park like Killarney Provincial Park.

Now time for my camping confession:

I have never camped in Algonquin Provincial Park

An Alligator in Ontario
An ‘Alligator’ in Ontario – from the Logging Museum in Algonquin Park

 

Algonquin Park is an icon of Ontario. It is a big park, a very big park. At 7,600sq km it’s bigger than your average Caribbean or South Pacific island. It is also only 250km north of Toronto, making it very accessible to most people who live in Ontario. For outdoor and nature lovers, camping in Algonquin Park is a childhood rite of passage. It is where many people first spot a Moose in the wild, or hear Wolves howling at night. It is where you may first hear the haunting call of the Common Loon, or where you’ll take off on your first back-country canoe camping adventure.

It is one of our most cherished parks in Ontario and I have visited Algonquin Park somewhere around 20 times. But, I’ve only ever visited for day trips, or stayed overnight at cabins nearby, like the Wolf Den Nature Retreat. I did try camping at Algonquin once. It was a July long weekend and we took off to grab one of the first-come, first-serve sites that can not be reserved ahead of time. Standing in line, the person in front of us scored the very last site.

Moose at Algonquin Park
A Moose, spotted through the trees, at Algonquin Provincial Park

 

It was July and this massive park was 100% full. It was teeming with Canadians and other visitors who wanted to go camping, canoeing, swimming and hiking. The Highway 60 Corridor, which is home to most of the camp grounds and visitor facilities, had a constant stream of cars zooming along.

So, on a whim, we decided to keep driving north, to another park, in search of a camp site. We drove past Grundy Lake Provincial Park, past Killarney Provincial Park. We kept going past Sudbury, then beyond Sault Ste. Marie. After driving for about eight hours after Algonquin, we came to Lake Superior Provincial Park and set up camp.

Pictographs at Agawa Rock
Pictographs at Agawa Rock in Lake Superior Provincial Park

 

It was a great weekend of hiking on quiet trails and enjoying the rugged coastline of Lake Superior. It also got me hooked on the more northern parks of Ontario.

That was many years ago and I have camped at dozens of provincial parks since then but I’ve never had the urge to go camping at Algonquin Park. In a weird way, the popularity of Algonquin helped turn me on to the great, lesser-visited parks we have in our province. I still enjoy visiting Algonquin Park every year as it has superb hiking trails and canoe routes, but when it comes time to pitch a tent, my sights are set further north.

Grey Wolf
A Grey Wolf at Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

 

I do know many people who swear by Algonquin Park and will go on 10-day canoeing adventures into the depths of the park. It definitely has a special place in many people’s hearts and I know – one day – I will explore the park more, and go camping there. But the beauty of Ontario is that we have such diversity. Our province is so large that the trees and animals I may see at Wakami Lake Provincial Park may differ from those I see further north at Sleeping Giant Provincial Park or further south at Samuel de Champlain Provincial Park.

So, to me, as impressive as it is, Algonquin is the ‘everyone’ park that attracts the crowds. Now, I’ll admit I have gone camping at many smaller parks during crowded, noisy times. So it isn’t just the fact that it’s a popular park that makes me avoid camping there. In fact, I know it is such a large park that it is easy to spend a week there without encountering other people. It’s just not my style of travel to do what everyone else likes to do. I crave different experiences in different places. Algonquin is famous for Moose-spotting, but other parks, with different environments and landscapes, are better for spotting other wildlife, a factor that weighs heavily on where I decide to camp.

A Groundhog
Groundhogs are one animal I’ve more commonly seen in Ontario Parks other than Algonquin Park

 

You will find me up at Algonquin Park soon though. As the spring takes hold and snow begins to melt in coming weeks, the Moose migrate to roadside ditches in search of salty goodness. For a couple of weeks of the year it isn’t unheard of to come across a dozen Moose on a visit to Algonquin during this time. But, it will only be a day trip for me as I have other parks to book my camping sites at.